I agree. I can think of a couple of reasons:

1. The oil change is a loss leader to get the customer in the door.
2. The dealer may be able to save on the oil by stocking in bulk vs. quarts

 

Or that $44 "0W-20" oil change may actually use a non-synthetic oil that is not 0W-20.

 

Generally 0W-20 requires at least a Group III base oil which is considered synthetic in the United States.

And I hope that it would meet the appropriate API approvals.
Here is a list of API approved 0W-20:
http://eolcs.api.org/FindBrandByVisc...iscosity=0W-20

 

I noticed a few of you change your own oil but buy the factory filters. Is there a reason you do this?

I've been thinking about doing the Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy and was considering using a Fram filter, any thoughts or suggestions?

 

Joe,

Take a look at the BITOG site http://www.bobistheoilguy.com for some informed opinions about Fram filters. In general terms, some of them are OK a lot of them are marginal at best.

Most of the recommended filters are Mobil 1, Wix, Napa Gold (same as Wix), Puralator Pure One, K & N, Amsoil or similar filters (factory). I happen to use Mobil 1 or Wix for oil filters and Wix for my cabin and air filters.

Fram air filters seem to work fairly well and a lot of people use them as well as the Wix and Puralator filters. I will not get into the hype about K & N style oiled air filters but you can also go that way if desired.

 

Thanks for the reply!

My dealer's service center uses Castrol Syntec, I usually get a coupon for about a $30 oil and filter change. Never inquired about what oil they're actually putting in my car.

Two questions: what do you think about the Castrol vs. Mobil 1?
and
Would it be worth it for me to buy the Mobil 1 and have them put it in my car (since I'm not ready, especially with winter approaching to DIY, yet)?

I've looked around locally and haven't found the 0W-20 Mobil 1 anywhere except Pep Boys ($6.69/qt).

 

This one usually starts a firestorm on that other board.... Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil 1, Quaker State Advanced, Castrol Syntec or any other major brand of synthetic oil will be fine with a 5,000 mile OCI. To be honest about it, any major brand of dino oil will work given a 5,000 mile OCI..... The only problem is that 0w-20 is only found in synthetic while 5w-20 can be had in either flavor.

 

Joe:

I'll second David's recommendation that you check out BITOG (especially since I'm an admin over there myself... ). Seriously though, you'll find much good info.

I don't use the OEM filters. I'm sure that they are just fine, but I've done UOAs with particle counts, and brute force filter dissections on various brands, and I prefer others. I especially don't care for the construction of the Fram filters. The filter medium is secured on the ends with flimsy and poorly glued cardboard end caps. On an appropriately sized Fram model, you can literally crush the entire filter element, including the very thin metal center tube, with your bare hand. Filters like the NAPA, and all brands made by Champion Labs (Mobil-1, K&N, STP, some Bosch, and various house brands), the filter medium is very strongly cemented into strong metal end caps, and the element/cap combo, hand-crushable in a Fram, is indestructible unless you get at it with heavy tools. Toyota OEMs have cardboard end caps too, but when examined closely, they are much better put together than a Fram.

Now, certainly, I don't think that Frams are failing by the droves, but since their prices are essentially the same as for any number of much more robust filters, I'd just as soon pay for the better made filter. Both our TCH and the Prius are presently wearing NAPA 1396s.

 

Joe:

The Autozone stores in our area carry M1 0w-20 AFE for 20 cents less per quart than PBZ does. This stuff should work just great in the TCH. You might also consider Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20. Only drawback to the PP is that it seems to be almost an unseen animal in the wild (as in on store shelves). I just ordered four cases from an on-line store, and even with shipping, the per-quart price is, IIRC, $6.35, actually slightly less than M1 from the local AZ or WM.

 

Neither of those links work for me. I think I will need the TSB because my dealer wants to charge me extra for the 0w20 (over the prepaid maintenace fees).