I use Mobil 1 0W-20 and Toyota filters every 5000 miles year round. Averaging 40-41 MPG. Currently 15000 miles and no issues.

 

I'm in the process of trying a couple fills of Havoline Deposit Shield (DS) 5w-20. I had changed whatever was in the car when I bought it (with 5k miles on the odo) to M1 0w-20 on the second day, and drove this oil for a couple thousand miles. I went for the DS, as I was not satisfied the car was fully broken in, AND because it's one of the lowest viscostiy SM 20 wt oils available, at only 8.0 cSt* hot (even M1 0w-20 is 8.6 cSt hot; measurably thicker than the DS). Anyway, my mpgs are climbing, which may be the oil, the progressing break-in, my driving technique, something else, or any combo of the above. Also, although DS is "only" a Group-II+ mineral product, it's used oil analysis results are consistently very good, and arguably better than what is often seen from syns like M1. But I have no UOA on this car -- yet anyway.

* centiStokes, one of the recognized and commonly used measures of fluid viscosity.

 

I recently had my oil changed at the dealer I bought the car at. It will be my last time I bring the car back to the dealer. When I brought the car in, I asked specifically for the 0w-20. The service manager stated that he didn't think my car (2009) took 0w-20. I said it did. He had a mechanic come to check under the hood by looking at the oil cap which stated either 0w-20 or 5w-20.

They said they changed with 0w-20 but I am suspicious now in that you would think the dealer would know by now what type of oil can be used. At this particular dealership you can't see the actual service bays......so.... now I wonder what they actually put in.

I will start either changing the oil myself or take my own to local mechanic and have them change. Last time to the dealer for me.

 

I don't trust dealers or oil change shops to put in what oil I ask for. I buy my own then go to my dealer and buy the factory filter. Look around and find a place that will change your oil/filter and only charge a labor fee.

 

Everone fretting about oil again, we have a 50 gal drum of Amsoil 10-30 in the hanger and use it on all the lexus vehicals, tractors, 4 wheelers, 4 aircraft. the cammy now has over 70K on it and had it in since 1500 miles and does not use any between changes and stays clean. We are also in cold country where we see -40 in the winter months, heck on my Gulfstream V, one engine is worth about 7 Cammies to OH so I trust the oil lol. Let the flames begin, just trying to prove a point, keep the oil clean and put whatever you want in it.

 

Skywag:

As good a product as Amsoil makes, please tell me you're not using automotive 10w-30 in your G-V...

I would also observe that if you can afford the stable of transit hardware you advertise, you an afford to buy a new engine while you duke it out with the manufacturer in a warranty fight centered on whether you provoked a problem using a non-recommended lubricant. Now, do I really think that 10w-30 will cause a problem in a TCH? No, not at all, but alas, I haven't won the lottery (yet), so I'm not going to give Toyota an excuse to challenge me if there is a failure at some point.

 

I looked up Amsoil 0W-20 full synthetic oil. It shows retail at $9.25 per quart. I did find a place where you could buy it wholesale if you become a dealer. Then it's a 25% to 30% discount I guess if you buy in quantities. That brings the price of a quart down to $6.47 if you can get the 30% discount. It don't mention the shipping cost.

I can buy the toyota brand from the toyota dealer for that price. I can buy mobil one 0W-20 at walmart for $6.49 per quart, pay a little tax and it's mine. That seems a lot simpler to me.

 

I pay $1244 for a 55 gal drum figures around $5.65 per qt. I use a lot of oil and this works well for me but if you only need a couple qts, yes $6.47 is not all that bad. Seems everytime I look at any of my many vehical records it is time for a change, although the nice thing with Ams is a lot longer change intervals, I also have an electronic tester and can tell the actual life left of the crankcase oil and what it is contaminated with, water(usually condensation) antifreeze, soot, many differant metals ect. Knock on wood as I never ever in my 65 years have had an engine go South. Ams stands behind its products and if any engine is damaged from their product they will replace it period! Had an oil pump failure on an aircraft a few years back at nite and flew 20 min with 0 oil pressure(oil pump shaft broke) found landing spot and tore engine down only to replace oil pump, and I don't even need to say what oil I had in it lol, point is it is your machinery and do as you think is rite, I just say what works for me. And I am sure other folks have good luck with their brands also so if you have good luck stay with it but when I am at FL 30,000 at nite over mountains i sure do not want an engine failure as it is tough to just pull over the the shoulder of the road lol! It just gets old on here when someone rips a mechanic because he put in 5-20 instead of 0-20, big deal it is not the end of the friggan world.

 

The price will come down when more dealers stock the 0W-20 in bulk.
- My local Toyota dealer offers a 0W-20 oil change for $44.

So, keep asking for it and hopefully the dealerships will respond.
It's a pain for the service techs to go though all those quart bottles.

 

$44 seems like a good deal for a 0W-20 change. My local shop wants $70 for the oil change. Figuring $7 a quart and 5 quarts of oil, the oil alone will cost the shop $35. I do not see how they can do it for $44.

Around here a non-synthetic oil change normally costs $35 or so.