jacking points for a floor jack?
#2
Re: jacking points for a floor jack?
Shop manual says jacking points are same as stated (but not depicted very well) in the owners manual......see attached.
Lifting points (for service department lifts) are different and require those hinged lifting pads - I've seen them lift mine at the Ford dealer.
Lifting points (for service department lifts) are different and require those hinged lifting pads - I've seen them lift mine at the Ford dealer.
#3
Re: jacking points for a floor jack?
I wish it was as easy as my jeep cherokee; even with the unibody there are solid points all over (I've used as many as eight at one time).
On the FEH the only spots I've used or found to trust so far are as follows:
For the front...the strongest point is where the A-arms/control arms (or whatever they call them) all come together with the subframe, both sides...it is really obvious when you look under there. It is a a pretty big spot to position the jack.
For the rear I would only use the rear differenial when using a floor jack.
As already mentioned, be sure to replace the round metal piece on your jack with one of those hard rubber ones. Shouldn't cost more than $10 or so.
BTW if you are doing a tire rotation and you only have the one creeper jack, like I did, it can be a bit of a PITA. Unless you have a spare tire that is going into the rotation, moving from corner to corner can result in the vehicle becoming pretty unstable, if not done with some thought. I found the best, safest way to do it was to FIRST use the creeper at the rear and leave it there, with the vehicle slightly raised, barely off the ground. SECOND I used the OEM scissor jack, alternating for each of the front wheels as needed. This way kept the vehicle very stable.
D.
On the FEH the only spots I've used or found to trust so far are as follows:
For the front...the strongest point is where the A-arms/control arms (or whatever they call them) all come together with the subframe, both sides...it is really obvious when you look under there. It is a a pretty big spot to position the jack.
For the rear I would only use the rear differenial when using a floor jack.
As already mentioned, be sure to replace the round metal piece on your jack with one of those hard rubber ones. Shouldn't cost more than $10 or so.
BTW if you are doing a tire rotation and you only have the one creeper jack, like I did, it can be a bit of a PITA. Unless you have a spare tire that is going into the rotation, moving from corner to corner can result in the vehicle becoming pretty unstable, if not done with some thought. I found the best, safest way to do it was to FIRST use the creeper at the rear and leave it there, with the vehicle slightly raised, barely off the ground. SECOND I used the OEM scissor jack, alternating for each of the front wheels as needed. This way kept the vehicle very stable.
D.
Last edited by LynchMob; 11-15-2006 at 09:19 PM.
#4
Re: jacking points for a floor jack?
there are points on the inside of the unibody seal. They are difficult to see sing the unibody seal hangs lower than these points do. They are identified by an enlongated hole about an inch and a half long.
EDIT: and always use jack stands. A jack is meant to lift the weight only, not to hold the weight of the vehicle.
EDIT: and always use jack stands. A jack is meant to lift the weight only, not to hold the weight of the vehicle.
#5
Re: jacking points for a floor jack?
Hi all,
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I'll have to take a closer look next time I can crawl under there. According to the manual the rear differential is not to be used as a jacking point.
Don
Thanks for the replies. Looks like I'll have to take a closer look next time I can crawl under there. According to the manual the rear differential is not to be used as a jacking point.
Don
#6
Re: jacking points for a floor jack?
I take it you are referring to the glove box manual and not the FSM. The former is referring to proper use for the scissor jack.
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