Avinator, it depends:
"Option #1
LPC-150-350 and 2X 1N4005G diodes

Option #2
LPC100-350
APC35-350
Fuse holder
1 diode in the positive output lead with the stripe on the battery side"

.. I recieved parts for option 2 but I wish we could get a more detailed diagram. Having a hard time figuring out how to wire it up and i don't want to do it wrong

 

It doesn't matter at all - 1 diode or 2. I use 2 because they're crazy cheap, and it provides protection if a single diode fails and goes short circuit. I'm also not always consistent in my recommendations because I'm either 1) forgetful, 2) in a hurry, 3) not 100% engaged. Advice is what you pay for it.

Here's a wiring "diagram":

[Battery (-)] (-)----[diode(|)]-----APC-100-350------(+)[wire nut](-)-----APC-35-350-----[diode(|)]----(+) [(+) Battery]

If you can't figure out the above, it's probably beyond your skill set to get this done.

 

How am i able to tell once its charged enough?

 

320V target voltage with the following criteria applied:

Charge for a minimum of 4 hours, no matter what.
If you achieve 320V before 4 hours, continue charging until 4 hours is reached.
If you achieve 320V before 6 hours, you may terminate charge.
If you do not achieve 320V before 6 hours, terminate charge.
Charge for a maximum of 6 hours, no matter what.

Prior to starting the car, ensure your 12V battery is 100% charged and make sure all electrical accessories are off.
Upon first starting the car, DO NOT DRIVE IT!
Allow the vehicle to idle-charge until it turns the gas engine off.
Once gas engine turns off, and no problems are indicated, you may drive it normally.

 

Thanks for the reply,

I was able to charge mine with one diode. Prior to charging, the reading of the pack was 301v. I charged mine for 30 mins using a HLG-120H-C350A and a D1NK60-5070 diode. After 30 mins the pack read 335v. Before closing the battery pack, I made sure the car started! luckily it did!

Thanks for all these great info!

 

At 301V the pack was completely flat.

After 30 minutes 0.175Ah was input into the battery.

0.175Ah on a rating of 5.5Ah is 3.2% SoC. This is a very low state of charge and not at all ideal for starting. That's why I recommend 4-6 hours. 4-6 hours gives you 1400-2100mAh, which is at the extreme low end of the normal SoC range ensuring the battery is not damaged when it's hit with 30A of load to spin the ICE.

Charging for only 30 minutes risks damaging the battery.

 

Hello sir,

The reason i only charged it for 30 mins was that, the power supply was getting too warm (not hot to touch) and that the battery pack read 335v. I have been using the car for over a week now and runs fine. Now that the car is back to normal operation, do you still recommend to charge it an additional 4 hours? I was able to run a cable from the relay out of the battery pack just incase I have to charge it again. You mentioned that target voltage 320v, now that it reached 335v on my first 30min charge was not sufficient? Please let me know if charging the battery 4 more hours will be a good idea at this point. I would love to hear your feedback and I am doing this for the best health of the car or battery.

Thanks in advance.

 

No. As I indicated in my prior post, the 4 hour charge is to prevent damage during start up.

You charged the battery to 3.2% SoC. The vehicle is now likely near 50% SoC from normal operation.

 

Dear S.Keith,
your thread contains highly appreciable information, ‘Thanks’ from the bottom of my heart, read your post related to 2008-2009 FEH, your patience, prompt reply, practical solution and inspiring advise is life saving, therefore will try to bring back life in to my Ford Escape Hybrid 2009 (87k mileage), which has been laying in back yard for nearly a year and the HV battery is at 241V now.

01. I bought a new 12V battery 6 months back and tried to start the FEH but it didn’t work then. Now used Schumacher BE01255 Jump starter 245A@5ec., PEAK 1200A,+ charged the battery to 12.9V, but as soon as I connect it with the FEH and turned the key the voltage drops quickly. Should I return the 12V battery and get a new one?

02. Dashboard shows Wrench, Check Engine, Oil and Red Triangle sign.

03. I have scanned the FEH with FORScan using ELM327 and the scan report for DTCs are



DTCs in PCM : P1000:00-2B, P1A10:00-2B

DTCs in ABS : C1014:07-60, C0034:29-60, C0031:29-60, C0021:21-60, C1018:00-20, U3003:16-60

DTCs in TCM : P1260-FF

DTCs in BCM : P0A7D-60

DTCs in IC : B1318-20, U2023-20, B1601-20

Have done some Live test , DTCs in Modules, Service Procedures and the Scan report are shown in the picture in this post for your kind attention and valuable opinion.




04. I am guessing all these DTCs are somehow interrelated and due to the HV battery is at low voltage, if this is correct, charging the battery and attempt to start it will be the first
initiative. I have drawn kind of a diagram keeping in mind your suggestions which is shown in the pic.


05. Are the connections made in the diagram correct?

06. Which charger will be BETTER LPC-100-350+ APC-35-350 or HLG-120H-C350A ? If HLG-120H-C350A is used should it be set at max output? (for voltage 110vac)

07. What kind and what voltage of Fuse ( example:.Fuses with Leads (Through Hole) FUSE, CERAMIC TUBE 1.6A, 600VAC/600VDC 0ADAP1600-RE Datasheet ) should be
appropriate one and which lead should have it ?

08. I was thinking to use cable/wire of (DC output) 16/18 or 22 AWG since HLG-120H-C350A is of 17 AWG wire and LPC-100-3500 is of 18 AWG wire, but you mentioned 28AWG to get low current flow (this sounds GOOD ) your opinion on this once again ?

09. After Charging and before I attempt to start the FEH, should I clear all codes? If I have to, will I be able to clear these codes by FORScan? or it will reset once the battery is
disconnected?

Thanks for taking the pain to read the post and it will be highly appreciated if you could reply on the above for a person stuck in middle of a desert without water.....luckily has internet and laptop! Thanks....once...again..

 

01 12V must be healthy and charged. Any ignition on voltage of 11.5V or greater should be fine; however, that is the low limit on a marginal battery.

02 Expected due to codes present

03 thanks

04 Most likely. HV battery voltage must be resolved before meaningful diagnostics can be continued.

05 both are correct.

06 no difference. Cost and availability.

07 1A/250VAC on supply side.

08 you're only passing 0.35A. 16/18/22 awg are all way more than sufficient. 28 can pass 0.83@60°C, and you should get nowhere near there. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

09 clear via 12V disconnect for 5 minutes

Charge for 4 hours prior to attempting start. 4 hours of charging will only put 1.4Ah vs. 5.5 rated into the battery.

Once started, do not drive, and allow the car to idle until 1) until the ICE shuts off or 2) 20 minutes. This ensures the ICE has charged the HV battery to within the normal operating range.