While some may see a correlation with the heater and V4... there is NONE: There is a real strong correlation with your right foot.

If you drive it correctly you can stay in V4 up to five (5) minutes. Then it goes back for a while to V8 to burn the accumulated oil out of the deactivated cylinders.

On I-80 across Ohio at 69 mph you can average 65% of the drive west to east in V4.

 

it's a mechanical issue as the throttle position was above 35%, below that would allow V4.. I mean i;m on a street with a 55 mph limit. many are going 60-65mph (they can as it's more then a single lane) so i got to get up to speed with traffic.

 

Yes, throttle is related since throttle position is related to the engine torque command by the computers. If you start watching Manifold Absolute Pressure you will see an even better correlation.

I don't think it will stay V4 much above 75 kPa MAP. 35 mph or 80 mph

 

the highest RPM was 1850RPM in v4 mode at a steady speed, 85MPH flat grade. there is no point and trying higher since i would hit the speed governor at 95mph before then... most of the time Traffic does not allow you to get above 70mph anyways in heavy traffic it's under
0-25mph

 

took it out for a spin to get a bite to eat (2 miles away) it was misfiring not sure what cylinder(s) but it was tripping on it self the idle speed dropped from 1k rpm to 500rpm (when i was going to accelerate to 7mph not very fast just in the parking lot )then surged back to 1krpm (open loop cold start ) i checked for codes nothing..

when i got to the traffic light it did the same thing while waiting to make a turn 1/2 mile down the road ran rough tell i got to the place when i left everything ran fine and smooth like nothing was wrong ... it was almost warmed up to about 180-190

 

Was the CEL flashing indicating that the system knew it was misfiring? If the codes won't tell what cylinder, the color on spark plug porcelain usually will.

 

the computer did not whine about it but i have had a misfire before on my previous car.. so i know what it's like

I did a remote start and everything was just fine. no boggle down or anything

on the way back it did stay in v4 longer then expected. and was showing RPM meter move to 2k rpm in an autostop(the engine was off. as I was crawling in a parking lot if i did 2k in a parking lot,on ice it would have launched the suv). my speeds are 40-60mph in my area i expect it to stay in v8 tell i get to the average speed for that street... that is how it worked before.

 

If your engine really was off and the tachometer said 2K RPM, then you have electronic issues. I'd guess a bad ECM. Wasn't the dealer going to buy it back? Just get rid of it.

 

Yeah but they are stalling taking the sweet time :S the bond co said to work it out with the dealership and nada from them

i all ready tried that.. AFM issues are something a chain shop did to the suv

a failed oil change ..

 

I just started a thread on a thud/clunk when AFM disengages. It was buttery smooth prior to now. Any somewhat-concrete idea on what causes the rougher AFM cycles?