The one suggestion of note I will add to the process is a small refinement to GatorJ's "remove the rear cargo trim pieces and use a cut-down bit with an offset mini wrench" idea. That approach indeed works great and eliminates any need to remove the HVTB from the vehicle for this process. But if you buy the low profile version instead of the one originally linked there's no need to cut down a bit; the low profile T30 bit in that set fits with no problem on both sides. Makes removal of those two annoyingly placed screws surprisingly easy.
And if you're going to notch the case for the harness to pass through, I recommend adding a bit of heat shrink tubing to better protect against any sharp edges or abrasion. Also acts as a bit of a strain relief if it's snug enough in the notch.
All good suggestions. I edited my large post to include the link to the tool set you located (and purchased a set.). Good find.
Does anyone have a picture of an assembled HLG-120H-C350A power supply connected to the harness that is attached to the relay? Just want to verify that I'm doing everything correctly. Thanks!
While that would work, you are getting more and less than you need
You are only getting one end of the connector.
The fuse is probably not needed.
I suspect ring terminals are too large for the screws you are going to connect to.
Also, that type of connector is typically used to connect a 12V batter charger. Someone else might think that is what it's for. I'd prefer a less common connector not associated with 12V circuits.
If you've put the relay cover back on, then I've got nothing for you besides cutting in to the charger wires on the battery side of the diode to check voltage. Exercise extreme caution if you do this.
It might be best for you to just use Forscan with ignition on (no start). You will see voltage, but the current number won't be accurate/meaningful.
Would the prongs that are attached to the high voltage plug on the right side of the battery at the back of the relay be a good voltage testing point? The ones that look kind of tarnished in this photo. Those must be hot while the service plug and relay are in right?
Would the prongs that are attached to the high voltage plug on the right side of the battery at the back of the relay be a good voltage testing point? The ones that look kind of tarnished in this photo. Those must be hot while the service plug and relay are in right?
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