Just replaced the blend door actuator in my vehicle, and the tips here really helped. I also did not replace the third screw ( Hard one to get to ) that holds the actuator in, just in case I have to do this again in the future.

 

Going to be taking on this job in a few days. same as B4 but i don't have a warranty, this time it's a DIY!

 

I changed mine today. A little bit tougher then I thought it would be but not bad. I had 1 of the 7/32 little screws left and spend at least 15 minutes looking for where it belonged but couldn't.

I opened up the old one and gave it a pretty good looking at. the brushes/ carbon contact which others thought was a problem seemed o-k to me.
I did find signs of arcing and heat on the contacts for the motor. I will solder the motor to the contacts and clean up-grease up the rest and keep it as a spare.

Thanks to everyone who posted photos and help here.

 

It’s been 2 weeks and I have not seen the service soon light so guess it is fixed. The motor has solder tabs which someone decided they could put it in spring contact holders and work, well it works for a while. I think the problem is bad motor contacts. Mine showed signs plenty of arcing and that would get worse with time and vibration until a reliable contact could not be made. Would like to hear other people’s thoughts on this. Anyone else notice this on the motor contacts?

 

I came to the same conclusion when I opened up my old actuator. It is in a post around here somewhere.

 

I just got this done yesterday and the only part that confused me was the instructions for the 2 nuts on the lower assembly. The only 2 lower nuts I saw were underneath the car near the A/C lines, so I removed the nuts, lifted the entire assembly up an inch or so, and was able to swing the entire thing inboard to remove that single outboard actuator screw. Turns out the actuator I replaced was the original part # --- not bad for a 2008 with 79k miles on it I suppose, but what a lame design.

 

I think I may have to take on this repair soon. My '08 is giving me the wrench light.

I wanted to ask about the step instructing you to reprogram the TBCM. Travelover mentioned not doing it. For others here, was that just skipped?

Thanks,
T

 

I never had to do anything to the TBCM after replacing the actuator last fall. Not a single 'wrench' light since then.

 

Same here -- didn't reprogram anything and haven't had a problem since. And mileage is back up to low 30s from 27.

 

Thanks!

Wow that much of an MPG boost? Mine has dropped, but I assumed it was due to a number of other factors.