My MECS is getting pretty loud, but I still have the extended warranty active, so if it fails they will replace it. I don't do a lot of freeway, so hopefully it won't be too bad. If it were out of warranty I'd go ahead and replace it now.

 

My MECS was louder in the months leading up to its failure. After the initial warning, I was able to drive for a while (up to an hour) before I had to stop again.

Should give you enough of an opportunity to plan your repair.

-t.

 

Thanks. Is there any ScanGuage code associated?

 

I don't know.

However, I took my car to a dealership about two weeks before I moved (the MECS broke 2 days into the 1500 mile drive) and I asked them to check the pump since I'd thought it was more noisy. They said it was fine.

 

Sort of. You can monitor motor electronics temperature (MeT?) for an increase in temperature. Normally it runs around 10°F above outside ambient, but when the MECS pump stops there is a rapid increase in temp before ICE shutdown. When the pump fails and you're parked on the side of the road, try banging on the pump with a hammer or jack handle and it will likely begin to pump again, maybe long enough to get home.

 

Here is a post from CarlD at Cleanmpg.com.

Originally Posted by rkantor
Thanks! I typed the command and I retrieved 2 different answers after a couple of inquiries. First was 58010A3EFF000000, second was 58011A0DFF000000. I was trying to decode this, but this don't look like anything I have seen perusing the forum, unless these are 2 DTC's a piece? Hmm.
Hmm, probably one from the Pcm and one from the TCM. First response is 0A3E and the second is 1A0D. These can be decoded as:

0A3E --> 0 for P0A3E --> Generator Motor Inverter over temp

1A0D --> 1 for P1A0D --> Generator Disabled

These would almost certainly point to the Motor Electronics cooling pump. A very common problem that I thought was fixed by 2008. It could be just a bad ground, but probably the pump itself. The new pump lists from Ford for $282 but can be found online for about $160. Labor should not be more than an hour but dealerships may charge more. For 2 hours labor and retail on the pump it will be in the $600 range. Last edited by CarlD : 10-13-2011 at 04:34 PM.

CarlD has a thread on the SGII and X Gauge programming: http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showt...t=21291&page=4 You will not find a direct DTC from the SGII on the MECP. If you need information regarding the SGII and X Gauge, go to this thread. Remember, Carl was the first that brought us the SGII FEH SOC gauge and many more years ago.

GaryG

 

I think I read in another thread that the MECS pump was updated partway through the 08 model year.

My repair came to about $700 but was covered under mechanical breakdown insurance.

 

After 2 weeks I've had an improvement of about 2-3 MPG since I replaced the actuator.

Thanks again for all the tips,
t.

 

Hello all.
I've just replaced the blend door actuator on my 2007 FEH 4x4.
I was getting the intermittent wrench light usually associated with hot weather and running in EV/stealth/electric/whatever you want to call it mode.

After taking a test drive, I'm getting a noise from the blend door actuator... it's skipping and the ventilation door is not moving. It's strictly in recirculation.

Any suggestions on how to proceed at this point.
I'm able to get in and out with the actuator in under 10 minutes now so having to take things apart is no problem.

Thank you in advance.

 

I just took mine apart too.

No warnings, no messages, but warm battery frequently and lots of A/C use.

Took my actuator off and opened it up.
There is a small motor with a worm gear and three larger gears.
The largest gear moves the doors.
The largest gear has copper contacts or "brushes" on it.
The copper contacts complete circuits and act as limit switches so the motor knows when to stop in each direction of travel. The copper parts were caked up with white gear grease.
I don't know if it was conductive grease or not but assumed it was bad to have such a large amount. It would have cause problems either way. So I cleaned the grease off with dry paper towel and reassembled and it worked.

You know there are two doors and one actuator right?
Both have to be closed at the same time or both open.
If you install with one of each or partially closed you will get the symptom you describe.
The they both move in concert.
The bottom door is direct drive, the top door is pushed and pulled with a lever on a cam shaft.