Does anyone know the best place to measure the HV battery voltage? Right now I am checking at the point where the orange cables from the car attach to the black terminal at the battery. It reads 260-290 volts when driving. I am getting the Check Hybrid/VSC error and when I reset it with an OBD2, the car runs normally for a while, even running in EV mode for a mile or so with light pedal pressure. After a few days I get the error again and the engine runs continually. I imagine I need to condition the battery and replace any low cells, but I would like an accurate beginning voltage range. Thanks!

 

The operating voltage is 204-323V. Measuring pack voltage tells you almost nothing.

If you have an OBDII reader, why aren't you reading the codes to let the car tell you what's wrong?

 

The OBD reports the P0A80 code. Measuring the pack voltage allowed me to determine the hybrid system was charging, which it is.

 

P0A80 indicates a battery has failed and can no longer supply the required capacity for normal operation. This is due to one of these 3 possibilities in order of likelihood:

1. Widespread damage reducing capacity.
2. One or more failed cells.
3. Capacity loss due to voltage depression (can be improved by reconditioning).

I have personally serviced over 300 Toyota hybrid batteries including 10 Camry batteries. Of those Camry batteries I have seen #1 nine times, #2 one time and #3 zero times. The Camrys and all Generation 3 Toyota hybrids are extremely hard on their batteries and have cooling system flaws resulting in #1 requiring total replacement. 31 of 31 2010-2015 Prius also fell into category #1 with 0 being repairable or recondition-able.

In every case where a Camry had mostly normal function, i.e., drive-ability is only slightly negatively affected with slightly reduced power, reduced mpg, increased engine operation (not turning off at stops) and an audible battery fan, the battery charges and discharges superficially normally. Charging and discharging cease when the battery function is so poor it enters limp mode where the ICE spins MG1 and feeds that current directly to MG2 providing extremely limited power and very poor performance.

Your symptoms are consistent with #1. You likely need to replace upwards of 28 modules out of the 34 or replace the entire battery.

This thread shows essentially the BEST Camry pack I've ever tested:

https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...results-31216/

This pack required 14 modules to be replaced for a reasonably reliable DIY repair.

Note that NO modules indicated a bad resting voltage. All voltages ranged from 7.56 to 7.69 after sitting for 7 days. These results alone SCREAM #1.

Good luck.

 

Hello and thank you! Great information although it breaks my heart because the Camry is a great car. Quiet, comfortable and with all the things that make it a pleasure. I would do a battery service and continue to drive it except I want a plug in like a Volt and I won't get much money out of the Camry anyway.
Do you know the minimum battery pack voltage needed to start the engine? I will probably just drive it until it won't start.
Thanks again!

 

Total voltage has no intrinsic meaning. The car monitors the battery at 17 "blocks" comprised of 12 NiMH cells each (2 modules). A healthy battery will have these 17 block voltages to be with 0.3V of each other with high currents and under 0.2V with low to moderate currents. That means that the high and low of the 17 voltages will differ by no more than the 0.2 to 0.3V range.

The only no-start voltage criterion that I can identify is all 17 blocks must be 12V or greater. I have personally witnessed this. A recently driven vehicle will typically have resting block voltages of 16V or so after sitting overnigh.

If you are an Android user, you can install the free Hybrid Assistant and Hybrid Reporter apps and purchase a . The app has a means of testing your HV battery (directions on app website) that includes displaying and recording your 17 block voltages. You can post the results here for feedback.

If you are an iphone user, there are apps available that can give block information, but I believe none are free, and you'll need a wi-fi OBDII adapter instead. I have no direct experience (being an apple h8r).

Provided you do not need to pass emissions, and the car performs acceptably, it can continue to be driven without serious concern. Point of no return events include the aforementioned limp mode and/or uncommanded/involuntary shut downs where you must pull over and re-start the car.

 

Hello again. I already have the OBD unit and have installed the apps you mentioned. If I decide to try and get into the battery, do you have replacement cells as I might need them? I hate to throw away the car since it runs and drives so well.

 

Sorry. I don't sell individual modules.

 

I just had that same code you had and cleared it up I can explain better over the phone if your ok with that but depending on the condition of each cells in your pack will determined if you need to replace a few cells or not