Need help 07 Ima and battery light
rOkay. So remaining symptoms:
The above is typical of a severely imbalanced battery or highly deteriorated. Your guaranteed solution is to replace the pack and is likely the ONLY long-term solution. The discharge test may give a clue as to the weakest subpacks and enable you to replace the weakest ones (likely 4-5 of the 11 are bad).
The deep discharge MAY help restore some capacity and balance to the pack enabling limited function. It's a long shot, and it's something you'll need to keep doing periodically to maintain performance.
Steve
- IMA light on (maybe off sometimes)
- Check engine light on
- Auto-stop sometimes works
- 12V light never comes on
- Assist sometimes works
- Regen sometimes works
- You are getting recalibrations:
Gauge drops to 2 bars at 1 bar/sec and you lose assist. The car forces charge.
After charging, gauge will run to full at the rate of 1 bar/sec.
Overall IMA performance during the recalibration is very poor.
Car has weak acceleration.
A/C use makes the car feel gutless during the forced charge period.
After charging, gauge will run to full at the rate of 1 bar/sec.
Overall IMA performance during the recalibration is very poor.
Car has weak acceleration.
A/C use makes the car feel gutless during the forced charge period.
The deep discharge MAY help restore some capacity and balance to the pack enabling limited function. It's a long shot, and it's something you'll need to keep doing periodically to maintain performance.
Steve
Last edited by S Keith; Jan 7, 2016 at 01:15 PM.
In post #26 I indicated "Install 100-250W bulbs (whatever you can get, but they MUST be the same wattage)."
Please confirm symptoms in post #31.
I don't mind helping you, and I know my posts can be lengthy at times.
It gets a little frustrating when I keep referring you back to information I've already posted in this thread.
Please do your best to read my entire posts. I'm only doing this to help you.
Lastly, you need to be looking for replacement subpacks now. A salvage yard pack for a few hundred $ would probably be ideal.
Steve
Please confirm symptoms in post #31.
I don't mind helping you, and I know my posts can be lengthy at times.
It gets a little frustrating when I keep referring you back to information I've already posted in this thread.
Please do your best to read my entire posts. I'm only doing this to help you.
Lastly, you need to be looking for replacement subpacks now. A salvage yard pack for a few hundred $ would probably be ideal.
Steve
No I can't. You can't purchase subpacks separately from Honda. You can use Google as well as I can.
You need to check local salvage yards for whole packs or ebay for used subpacks.
I'm bringing it up now because it's likely going to be a challenge for you.
Concerning the check engine light, which appears right below the IMA light, does it come on when you turn the ignition on but before you start the car?
You need to check local salvage yards for whole packs or ebay for used subpacks.
I'm bringing it up now because it's likely going to be a challenge for you.
Concerning the check engine light, which appears right below the IMA light, does it come on when you turn the ignition on but before you start the car?
Based on my understanding, the check engine light is ALWAYS on when the IMA light is on and often stays on if the IMA light goes out.
For you to have an IMA light, no check engine light and a code is extremely unusual.
For you to have an IMA light, no check engine light and a code is extremely unusual.
Ok I understand that but I know it is working cause if I pull the connector of the air flow sensor it does come on or if I take out certain fuses it will come on
I believe you. I've just never seen it on either of my cars. I've never read an account of it, and it's counter to what the Honda service manual indicates.
Do you have the Honda Service Manual for it?
Steve
Do you have the Honda Service Manual for it?
Steve



