50 MPG? You must really be careful. I managed that once on a 500 mile road trip, but I was nursing it, keeping speeds down to 50 and 55 much of the way, which about drove me insane. 41 is more normal for me, tracked carefully over one full set of tires (55k miles?) doing mostly commuter driving in Los Angeles.

I suppose I could live with this failing battery. That surprise starter works. There are hills here and in SF that I can barely do without the extra HP unless I really smoke the clutch (which itself is a a $1400 item). So I avoid those hills. But I'd still need to put some electrical tape over the IMA and engine lights. They mess up the aesthetics of the dash. :-)

 

I thought it was a 10/120k warranty when I bought it in California (and I thought TX and NY were the same as well, all other states were 8/80k). Is it 10/150k? I have 130k on my 2007 HCH2 and will go back and fight again to try to get my battery replaced. I originally had 86k when the IMA light first came on, and i gave up around 100k trying to get the battery pack replaced. The IMA light is not on constantly, but comes on every 3k miles for the day, then will go off once i turn off the engine. I bought the vehicle in CA, drove it 22k miles, moved to Florida, and the dealer and HOA both said it's an 80k warranty now because it's registered in Florida! A warranty doesn't change based on the state it's registered in. It's still a California VIN, and a SULEV no matter where I live.

So is it a 10y/150k on the battery and CVT? I have all my original paperwork. Where would it say it on it?

 

Aftermarket batteries are available. It does help out with the ROI equation a bit. You really should be getting more than 100k miles out of a battery though. How many years ago was it replaced at 80k? It's time more than miles that matters. Miles is actually good, depending on the local driving conditions. For example, we know the Arizona heat is hard on the batteries. CVT vs. MT matters as well.