Some of what you say doesn't make sense. First, the part is substantially cheaper, and the replacement is relatively easy. Even if you bought new parts and went DIY, you'd be into it for less than $2K. If you bought used parts, you'd be into it for less than $500.
Your use of the word "totaled" doesn't seem to apply. "Totaling" a vehicle is typically used in the context of insurance and collision damage, not electrical or mechanical repairs.
A repair exceeding the value of the vehicle really isn't a meaningful metric on its own. Give the overall reliability of Honda products, a $6K repair that might get you another 50-60K of miles out of the vehicle is actually a very reasonable prospect. MOST people don't factor in REPLACEMENT cost when considering repairs.
When I told Honda Service that if this repair was not under warranty I would probably pay close to $3000, I got this response from the Honda Service department rep.:
"Actually, it would be more like $6000".
So I am just quoting the dealer. If this was not under warranty, of course that I would replaced it myself to save money and time. The car was there for 10 days. They didn't do anything else on the car that would explain the cost. In any case, it was 100% covered so I am happy 😊.
Found the problem! I finally decided to take it apart and look further... it’s a blown IGBT
In other news, I was able to find a salvaged part (1B200-RW0-000) from Rochester NY for $325 from a car with 19k miles. i probably made about 20 calls until I finally found someone who had one. I hope to have that tomorrow. In the mean time I will search for replacement IGBTs. Then, with any luck, I’ll have a spare
update... here’s better pics of blown IGBT. Looked for a couple hours trying to find replacement part but it appears to be a custom Honda part. I think Mitsubishi makes the original part similar to PN CT600DJH060 but I can’t figure out how to buy new ones...
There is a publication here with a lot of info. Towards the end of the publication, they mention the J-Series which looks a lot like the part from the inverter. https://www.mitsubishielectric.com/e...3_complete.pdf
What is the name of the place you bought the part from in new new ??
Some of what you say doesn't make sense. First, the part is substantially cheaper, and the replacement is relatively easy. Even if you bought new parts and went DIY, you'd be into it for less than $2K. If you bought used parts, you'd be into it for less than $500.
Your use of the word "totaled" doesn't seem to apply. "Totaling" a vehicle is typically used in the context of insurance and collision damage, not electrical or mechanical repairs.
A repair exceeding the value of the vehicle really isn't a meaningful metric on its own. Give the overall reliability of Honda products, a $6K repair that might get you another 50-60K of miles out of the vehicle is actually a very reasonable prospect. MOST people don't factor in REPLACEMENT cost when considering repairs.
Is there anyway you can help me? I have the exact same issue and on a limited budget. Desperately need to replace PARTS : 1B200-RW0-000 HYBRID MOTOR POWER INVERTER as the dealership wants 4K for my 2012 to be up and running. I have some skills if someone can walk me through. And also even help finding the part.
Hi....My 2006 Civic Hybrid IMA light and check motor ligh went ahead. Per Autozone/Advanced Autopart code peruser, IMA battery is falling apart. I'm the first proprietor; it has just 98K mileages. How long would i be able to drive this vehicle with a dead IMA battery? My specialist said If I turn the IMA battery(under the rearward sitting arrangement) off, at that point I can't drive the vehicle extremely long in light of the fact that “starter” is interfacing with the IMA battery( or assuming the switch is killed, starter doesn't work and vehicle 12V battery looses charge). Along these lines, killing the IMA battery isn't a choice.
Your 2006 is different from the issues in this thread.
You likely have a P0A7F or possibly a second code indicating individual module voltage imbalance (P1575?).
How long you can drive on a failed battery depends on the nature and severity of the battery failure.
If the red battery light stays off most of the time, then the 12V is charging, and you can drive indefinitely. If the light comes on during idle and during high rpm operations, but it stays mostly off between 1500 and 3500rpm, your IMA battery failure is substantial, but you are still mostly able to charge your 12V. Keeping the car in the 1500-3500 rpm range will help with 12V charging.
The car will likely frequently recalibrate and mileage will be poor.
A second measure is to turn off the master switch as your "specialist" described; however, that will FORCE the 12V charging to occur only between 1500 and 3500 rpm, and it will force the car to use the backup starter - like a regular car.
The only advantage to turning off the master switch is that your highway mileage will be almost as good as with a functioning IMA battery, but your city mileage will be poor.
HONDA CIVIC 2013 year. Good afternoon everyone. I forgive help, I have been suffering with the car for 8 months already. I'll start in order.
1) I drove, got out standard errors on the dashboard, read it with a scanner. Errors P1437, p15a5, p1440.
They found out the inverter transistor burned out. Have changed. We put the inverter back.
2) First showed error p1440. The hybrid tries to charge and an error pops up.
3) I took it off, put everything several times, then I decided to put it on for the last time, started it up, the battery was charged, rolled, everything works.
4) I collected everything back from the back, touched some wires and it looks like the circuit is broken somewhere. Now he gives me dozens of errors and sometimes different ones, where to look for this gap? The fact that everything is working was proved by the battery charge. Help where to dig,
P.S. There are no dealers, I understand everything myself, I can disassemble and assemble this whole hybrid with my eyes closed. The car was brought from the USA. I hope for your help
Many thanks for your long thread. Now I am planning to have my long journey to fix the similar issue with my 2012 Honda Civic Hybrid.
I thought I had spent a good maintenance cost since I purchased this car. and thought saved fuel cost a lot... But after all, no in vain...
The quote below I received today... Gee huge cost in Australia $5,135.00 + labour
I have received the system error code while get servicing for miles 100,000km
P0A78 - Motor Power Inverter Internal Circuit Malfunction
P15A5 - Motor Current Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1440 - Motor Power Inverter Module Output Circuit Malfunction
Appears all malfunctions are related to Circuit board so I suspect same invertor/converter issues.
Any good advise where I can start this long long fixing journey?
12 - 01 Motor Power Supply Voltage.
11 - 02 Control Unit Power Supply Voltage.
22 - 01 Engine Speed Signal.
83 F - Can Communication Malfunction.
There was no issue with Hill Assist initially but I got this error code after get serviced at Reputable Honda.
Hope I can get rid of this error codes after fixing inverter only.
Starting engine was always smooth one off turn key **** but now I have to turn it and hold it for moment to start engine.
Drive comfort seemingly like driving in sports mode and no longer smooth acceleration and gentle driving course expected.
But unlike all other thread above, I can still rev up 4000 rpm and making bursting(?) noise boom boom phoooo or something like that.
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06-28-2020, 09:38 AM
Re: Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
