Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
#31
Re: Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
Fixed! I am very happy to have my daily driver back! I was driving my motorcycle on nice days and my grandfathers 95 Buick Century on rainy days.
Thank you S Keith for your help on this!! The links you sent saved me about $1500! I saved over $3000 overall by doing it myself vs. letting the dealer fix it.
I created a case with Honda to see if they are able to help further. If they could make the IGBTs available, I could fix my old one. I'll post if I get more info...
Thank you S Keith for your help on this!! The links you sent saved me about $1500! I saved over $3000 overall by doing it myself vs. letting the dealer fix it.
I created a case with Honda to see if they are able to help further. If they could make the IGBTs available, I could fix my old one. I'll post if I get more info...
was it part of it inverter or part of battery?
what was looking part on car-part?
#32
Re: Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
Read the thread. Your questions are already answered.
#33
Re: Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
I got 2012 Honda Civic Hybrid, 111500 miles, 3 lights came on: Check Charging System, Check IMA System, Check Brake System. Error codes: "P0DA8" and "P0AE1 Bypass Contactor Mulfunction".
I checked the battery 12V voltage while the engine was running and obviously it is not charging, the voltage is 11.60V. Which part do I need 1c800-rw0-003 or 1b200-rw0-000?
Thank you.
I checked the battery 12V voltage while the engine was running and obviously it is not charging, the voltage is 11.60V. Which part do I need 1c800-rw0-003 or 1b200-rw0-000?
Thank you.
#35
Re: Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
- No, it does not rev above 2K rpm, it does not have enough "power" like before.
- I am not sure if it charges at a higher rpm, but I measured the 12V battery while connected to the car and while the car was running on idle and I was getting only 11.6V. Prior this issue I was getting around 13.9V or maybe even more. The 12V battery is basically new, it has only about 6 months, bought it brand new from Autozone specifically for this car. When I drove to Autozone they tested the 12V battery and it was good, but said needs to be charged, because it showed only 60% charged. The issue happened last Sunday morning. I am out of town so I cannot measure now whether it charges at a higher rpm, I can do it when I get back. Based on these findings, what do you think, what part do I need from those two?
Thanks
- I am not sure if it charges at a higher rpm, but I measured the 12V battery while connected to the car and while the car was running on idle and I was getting only 11.6V. Prior this issue I was getting around 13.9V or maybe even more. The 12V battery is basically new, it has only about 6 months, bought it brand new from Autozone specifically for this car. When I drove to Autozone they tested the 12V battery and it was good, but said needs to be charged, because it showed only 60% charged. The issue happened last Sunday morning. I am out of town so I cannot measure now whether it charges at a higher rpm, I can do it when I get back. Based on these findings, what do you think, what part do I need from those two?
Thanks
#38
Re: Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
Thanks
#39
Re: Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
Great news! I called Honda service. My car's IMA system and all its components are still covered under warranty until 150,000 miles or 180 months, whichever comes first. I got 112,000 miles on it and 96 months. They said they need to order a connector, that is part of the junction board for the ima system, this is covered and they should receive it on thursday, they will have more information for me then. I will provide more info once I know exactly what was wrong.
Thanks
Thanks
#40
Re: Civic Hybrid IMA failure - Bad Power Inverter
Some of what you say doesn't make sense. First, the part is substantially cheaper, and the replacement is relatively easy. Even if you bought new parts and went DIY, you'd be into it for less than $2K. If you bought used parts, you'd be into it for less than $500.
Your use of the word "totaled" doesn't seem to apply. "Totaling" a vehicle is typically used in the context of insurance and collision damage, not electrical or mechanical repairs.
A repair exceeding the value of the vehicle really isn't a meaningful metric on its own. Give the overall reliability of Honda products, a $6K repair that might get you another 50-60K of miles out of the vehicle is actually a very reasonable prospect. MOST people don't factor in REPLACEMENT cost when considering repairs.
Your use of the word "totaled" doesn't seem to apply. "Totaling" a vehicle is typically used in the context of insurance and collision damage, not electrical or mechanical repairs.
A repair exceeding the value of the vehicle really isn't a meaningful metric on its own. Give the overall reliability of Honda products, a $6K repair that might get you another 50-60K of miles out of the vehicle is actually a very reasonable prospect. MOST people don't factor in REPLACEMENT cost when considering repairs.