I don't see how having the control arms fixed could have anything to do with your problem. It might improve your mileage, but it would have done the same before your problems started.

Having an alignment problem is a good theory - and maybe you'll get a free alignment from having the control arms replaced.

Good luck.

 

Controls arms with improper geometry will (in many cases) cause problems with alignment, there are a few cases mentioned here where members were unable to have their car aligned properly because of the incorrect geometry. Alignments are not only toe in/out, but also camber/caster. Camber is a big factor in the uneven wear of the rear tires in this case. This link might be helpful for some who are interested in more info on alignments (which will play a huge role in FE if not correct, will cause abnormal tire wear which is what the problem is w/ the incorrect control arms, as well as instability/twitchiness at speed). http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4

The key here is that when they replace the control arms the have to do an alignment, it is listed as the final step in Corrective Actions on the service bulletin. You also should have an alignment done after any suspension work since there are always going to be adjustments that need to be made with the newly installed parts (if everything was perfect we wouldn't need alignments on passenger cars, but mfg and wear tolerances don't allow that). Yes, this could have been done with the old tires, but with the incorrect control arms they may not have been able to get the rear in spec. So the new control arm will fix the improper geometry of the original control arm, and then allow a proper alignment to be done.


Of course since we are past the 36,000 mi mark, we are out of bumper to bumper warranty and I had to call American Honda to get a case opened in order for the dealer to do this under warranty. So I have to go to the dealer and have them agree that replacing the control arms will fix the issues (which should be interesting since I already had the tires replaced so the new ones aren't worn yet). While I'm there I'm going to see if they can reflash the PCM to hopefully fix the CVT issue.

 

You have us all in suspense and wondering when this mystery will end, and how.

 

Me too, hopefully it'll all get sorted next week and I'll be back hitting 55-60mpg on my way to work. I'm really wishing I kept the worn out tires though, this is just another lesson that proves that I shouldn't throw anything away (just don't tell my wife I said that).

 

They WILL do an alignment after replacing the Control Arms. They almost have to.
They printed off my Before (with old control arms) and After (with new control arms) alignment numbers.

 

Alright...had the control arms replaced and alignment done. I saw roughly 1-2mpg increase which could easily be chalked up to driving conditions. I do need to get my tire pressures back to the range I used to be using (I dropped them down to the suggested pressure listed in the manual so they couldn't say anything about that when I went in for the control arms).

I didn't have them do anything for the CVT issue, as it hasn't shown itself in a week or so.

I'm going to rotate the tires, get them back up to the normal pressure for hypermiling and see how things go.

One other question, when you guys are at 65mph and coasting down a hill (engine off, instantaneous mpg @ 100), what rpm is the engine at?

 

The engine is still rotating normally only the vales are closed and the ICE is not using fuel! Hal

 

Yes, when you coast down a hill with your foot off the gas (or when using electric assist and no ICE) the valves are closed and your ICE is not using fuel.

My question was more to get an understanding of how other people's CVT adjusted gearing under this situation. I was curious to see what speed others ICE was spinning at 65 and coasting. I think in most situations all should be equal(or close to), if all are equal and mine isn't, I have something else to look into.

I asked for that situation because it is a bit more of a controlled case where as asking what rpm your car is running at driving on a flat roadway at 65 using the ICE we would have a lot more variables that could affect RPM (throttle position, wet/dry, concrete/blacktop/tar&chip, AC, tire type/pressure...).

 

My RPM drops as speed drops. No difference from ICE on or off.I can here and feel the ICE start and you can see the IFG change. I'm not sure what the rpm is at 65mph! I seldom go that fast. <grin>Hal