HCH II-Specific Discussions Model Years 2006-2011

2006 civic p0a3f

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  #11  
Old 03-18-2022, 08:12 PM
ItsdaSignGuy's Avatar
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

Hi Keith,

I am using a $10 eBay universal Bluetooth OBD2 dongle.

I just purchased a 51R new at my local Menards $110.

I removed old battery threw away the plastics & Steel holder installed the 51R popped it in and well like the greentec guy came out with a meter and connected to 12V battery saw it hit 11.4 volts on idle & jumped to 14.2 or something like that when he hit the gas .

Is this considered a weak 12 volt ?

In all fairness greentec guy used his obd2 reader and pulled this code himself .

So I am condemned to 1 of these 3 outcomes it looks like.

So for #1 bad wiring / requiring repair....Could it be a blown fuse as well ?

For #2 MCM is the computer right ? Could you please place part # i looked up MCM hybrid on eBay not to much luck.

For #3 i may have a mechanic willing and highly skilled but obviously not a hybrid specialist that would tackle this but I wonder how much he would charge me.

I will have to try the above mentioned method you sent a link to to get the codes manually . What did you say about the codes not matching the site . I don't have the manual yet so a little help here please.

I'll def keep you posted .

Working on car tomOrrow.

 
  #12  
Old 03-19-2022, 08:35 PM
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

Hi Keith ,

Unable to get the car inside the garage, due to another car inside the garage being worked on & unable to move.

The rain kept me from being able to work on the hybrid outside at all.

Before I left the shop closer to 8 pm, the rain had stopped.

I decided to turn the car on & started right up .

I let the car warm up to almost half way on the temp gauge, normal operation temp.

Started to give it gas , noticed the headlights get brighter as i gave gas & done lights and even windows opening and closer faster. When I gave it gas.

I decided to rev the engine to 3000 rpms for about 30 seconds then 4000 rpms 30 secs then we to for 5000 rpms.

Did t make it to 5000 rpms got to 4.500 rpms the car started almost " farting " (at this point I let go the gas.) and brake system light along with the steering wheel and exclamation light went on . The. For a moment did the IMA charging green bars came on on the IMA dashboard gauge . Not sure if the green light for the parking was blinking or disappeared.

I proceeded to run the OBD2 codes using my universal reader.

See below codes pulled :

OBD2 codes

cleared the codes and turned the car off feeling DEFEATED.

Attempted to turn the car on again, to not avail. I'm putting the new 12V on the charging tmrw since the charging is not working is def eating away at the battery .

Cant wait to get in tomorrow and start checking fuses for it will be 60 degrees & sunny.

Any help for the yellow pending codes would be greatly appreciated 👍

I picked up the following 2 items today $100 for both pulled from working car. 30 min drive see below :

Control Module (MCM )


DC invertor



I am looking at this OBD2 reader that allows to write VIN, bilateral and has capabilities as premium end OBD2 readers , what do you think ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15465969947...iFYzC&LH_BIN=1

I will be able to program ECU'S .

What do you think about firmware / software updates ?
Know how much they will cost ?

Can I download myself ?

Of course if needed.

How will I know if I need firmware/ software updates ?
Which meter do you recommend for taking on this kind of work with probing testing cables etc.. ?

Guy i bought the parts from said good luck the car is a nightmare

Wtf !! Can't believe I got myself into this..

I am going to fix this watch !

It must be #1

Or worst case #2

Keith .

No way #3

I have to think this way .

Please advise -
 
  #13  
Old 03-19-2022, 11:59 PM
S Keith's Avatar
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

P1116 ECT Sensor 1 Range/performance Problem
P2183 ECT Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Problem
P0111 IAT Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
When the above 3 occur together, P0111 must be resolved first.

P0111 is a:
connection issue
Failed MAF sensor/IATsensor


C1555 - Code not in service manual.
Likely due to low 12V. You should be charging it every chance you get until P0A3F is resolved.

I doubt the OBD unit you linked will allow you to do anything meaningful: "Notice: ECU CODING and KEY CODING are not applicable to all models, please send your model and year model, AND I will help you determine whether they are suitable!!! "

Looks like you're using Torque? Did you blink the codes?
 
  #14  
Old 03-20-2022, 12:16 AM
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Default Re: 2006 civic POA3F

Keith ,

I am still awaiting the service manual & CD to arrive .

What should I do right now besides inspecting all fuses &
Charging the 12V battery

How do I proceed to resolving my Codes ?

Start w P0a3f ?
then all subcodes ?

Torque pro pirated Version, w universal obd2 adaptor.

Keith , i read the link about the blink how to read the codes slow flash & fast flash but I have no idea how to jump the pins & be able to look at dash for codes ... Count the flashes etc...

Any tips ?

Also did I buy the right computer today for the MCM #2 fix for the p0a3f code ?


What & where is the MAF/sensor IAT / sensor ?

2006 Honda Civic hybrid

Please advise -
 
  #15  
Old 03-20-2022, 09:43 AM
S Keith's Avatar
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

Pirated Torque? Why? Isn't it like $6?

Check all fuses in the 3 boxes.

Thoroughly inspect engine compartment for loose, chewed or frayed wires.

Check part compatibility here: https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

Blinking is beyond simple:
Bend a paper clip to short the two pins
insert it into the OBD plug.
Turn key to ON (no start)
Count CEL blinks until it repeats
Count IMA blinks until it repeats

Follow diagnostics in the manual.
 
  #16  
Old 03-20-2022, 10:07 PM
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

Hi Keith ,

I'd like to begin with the paper clip diag blinking code.

IMA light blinks only , appears to be #8 slow flashes #9 fast flashes . So code #89 then brief pause and repeat.

I took video with my cell if you like to see it.

Here are some snapshots from the video:




I will add that the IMA light was NOT the only light blinking, the brake system , abs, steering wheel w exclamation, & the odometer was too with what looks like a code. On the left side of the odometer & right side. See above picture.

Moving on ,
​​​​​​
Today's report:

Arrived at shop knew Car would not start. Tried anyway, Did not even get a crank, weak battery. I jumped the car with a battery jumper and started up just fine. Drove the car to the back of the garage. Where i would begin to start working on it.

Quick recap of vehicle problems/symptoms:

IMA system is not operational.
- on the dash
​​​​​​ NO battery charging.
NO assist.
NO battery bars

Check engine on
12 volt battery red light onIMA battery on
Means i am draining my 12 Volt when connected
Back to today's report, sorry i digress.

Once I parked it i removed the 12 volt battery terminals and cleaned them with wire brush best as i could . Could do a better job cleaning them . In fact I will. And connected a battery charger to the battery . The battery terminals i wrapped in 2 microfiber towels each terminal for the meantime.

Proceeded to remove back seat and back rest as well. Exposing the IMA cover & switched it off .

Went under the hood & checked the 2 fuse boxes. Pulled them all out except the relays see picture below :


Again the relay big square looking ones did not pull . Or check.

Please advise how to check or pull if needed.

I also checked the IMA small box, did not pull the relay either.

Here are some additional pictures of battery terminal after i complete the fuse check & connected to battery again & engine bay pics as well.









Moving on to the inside of the vehicle.
i pulled all the little fuses all looked good & noticed one was missing see picture below :

#27 20A +B HAC OP
whatever that means....

Popped a 20A fuse in & then found this .

What the hell is this !! ?? Help !! See below :

​​​​​​





Zipped tied connector of some sort GULP .

Ok enough of the drama.

After discovering this , i disconnected the battery charger . I connected the battery terminals to the car battery under the hood. Then switched the IMA battery to on.

Turned they car on started up just fine.

I then turned off then
ACC & did the paperclip blinking thing
sorry did not write this in sequential order.

After that i switched the IMA battery Off again and proceeded to connect the battery charger to battery , with care battery terminals . & Left.

To be continued for tomorrow.

Please advise Keith. ​​​​​​
 
  #17  
Old 03-20-2022, 11:24 PM
S Keith's Avatar
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

"89" confirms P0A3F

All of the symptoms confirm P0A3F - basically the IMA motor and anything that relies on it is disabled.

Was the CEL blinking?

Other lights MIGHT be important down the line, but not right now.

I doubt it's a contributing factor, but I'd want to know where that wire goes.

At this point, you're waiting to run the manual diagnostics for P0A3F.

 
  #18  
Old 03-20-2022, 11:49 PM
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

Yes CEL blinking

You know Keith the China source for new batteries for this vehicle they are telling me that their team of engineers quote on quote say that by purchasing a new battery the CEL will go away. What sales mans huh
Will there be steps and procedures to be able to remove the motor sensor and replace it inside the service manual?

Where can I obtain this special IMA motor tool set?

I have to inquire about this so I can make an informed decision if I am going to pursue fixing the number three route which is possibly the source of the problem here.
 

Last edited by ItsdaSignGuy; 03-21-2022 at 12:04 AM.
  #19  
Old 03-21-2022, 12:14 AM
S Keith's Avatar
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

The manual has step-by-step procedures for everything involved.

 
  #20  
Old 03-21-2022, 09:07 AM
S Keith's Avatar
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Default Re: 2006 civic p0a3f

Responding to your post in the other thread.

I had a 2003 (Gen1) Prius, which is much more reliable than an HCH2. The traction motor went out - the equivalent of the IMA motor in the Honda. I could have replaced it for about $500 and a day's worth of work.

I chose to scrap the car instead.

 


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