Question:
On the CORRECT connection points, the relay is bypassed so I don't need to do anything kookie to begin discharging right?
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You will only have voltage there when the master is ON, so you have to have the master ON for charging or discharging. I find it to be an indispensable on/off switch.


Per my previous post, with no diodes on the PSU output, make sure the MASTER is OFF when you connect the PSU. Energize the PSU PRIOR to turning master on for charge.


It's a great on/off for discharging as well.

 

I added that to the rambling in my video.

it's curious, even starting charging 24hrs later that removal (mormally after 24 hours of inactivity the car immediately begins charging the batt at idle and i mean immediately!) the voltage has risen steadily . Now at 170v
So...it was full but unbalanced? The codes from the Ecu don't indicate imbalance it was the 1600 and the 1443... any insights?

I got the box fan on medium, 2ft away blowing in the side with the top stick missing... feel a little warm air out the other side but not much... should I be giving it more air?


EDIT:
the top end of normal operating range for this batt pack is 168 right? Thats 80% of true capacity right?
HA says balancing happens between 168 and 172, but how can that be if 168 is only 80% ? Is he just playing it safe?

If I understand correctly, In theory could the voltage be pushed to what, like 190? And still be completely safe (just during this refurb operation I mean)

 

I'm having trouble understanding what you're saying. P1443 or P1433? I don't think P1443 is a valid code. P1433 means battery failure, and it can be from cell failure or imbalance. Battery failure modes are multiple. DTC output is pass/fail. Battery is either good or bad - regardless of why (mostly).


Move as much air as possible through the pack. You'll never get much, but you can get more than you're getting. I made a rectangular "tube" of cardboard that is the size of the pack inlet, and I sandwich it between the pack and the box fan, so there's a sloppy "seal" and air is actually directed into the pack. This seems to make a difference.


Additionally, you might consider standing the pack on the end opposite the junction board with the fan and "tube" adapted accordingly. This minimizes the dead air space, and you get a little natural convective cooling.


The fact that you can feel a little warm air is good - it means you're moving some air, but more is better.

 

I could swear it was 43... I may be wrong. I did find some people using it at insight forums but this is an 05 so it should have been a different code... one person suggested it was a volts meter fault?
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/other-honda-hybrids-discussion/42737-hch-ima-issues.html#/topics/42737?page=1


.I'll post video in a bit but I got the air being forced thru the pack and I feel ALOT better about it.

this voltage is still rising on am almost linear slope... this isn't acting like HA said it would if it was imbalanced. (He said once the pack hits balancing it should have a little up and down on the voltage as the pack's chemistry gets reset.

What does that mean we can scratch off of the a thru z list of culprits ?

showing 173 volts flat now after only an hour and 25 minutes.

 

actually no, it does now appear to be slowing down a little.
down from 1v per 10 minutes to half a volt, and .4 this last roll. Next one coming up at 1625 looks like it will be only .2 climb... guess I was just too impatient.

EDIT: yes, I was jumping gun because now it is only gaining about one-tenth of a volt every 10 minutes.
Also entirely likely that the voltmeter is one or two off

 

I know Bumblebee referenced the P1443, but it didn't sound conclusive. Furthermore, RonaldH did not mention it, and he knows a lot.


Checking Dorman's warranty policy, P1433 is listed, but P1443 is not listed:


http://static.dormanproducts.com/doc...ryPack_FAQ.PDF


I don't have an HCH1 manual, so I don't know. I know P1433 is a bad battery.


I have not found HA's description of voltage response to be accurate in my experience, but I don't pay a lot of attention to voltage. I charge by time, not voltage, and I only spot-check periodically.


It's also very random when you're trying to understand what is happening with 120 cells. It's about minimum input and over-charge. You need to input 10,400 into the weakest cell and overcharge the rest. It's highly likely that one or more cells in the pack are at a very low SoC. Discharging them before they are fully charged, or nearly so, runs a real risk of damage.


If you can't do 30 hours, I suggest 24. If you can't do 24 in a stretch, do as many as you can, and come back to it and finish charging it.


The difference between a fully charged cell and a depleted cell is about 0.2V. You're not going to notice that in a pack voltage reading.


If you want more insight into what's going on, you can check the tap voltages, which gives you a voltage reading across 12 cells. This gives you a little more confidence in the individual cells rather than trying to glean it from a single reading on 120 cells.

 

The volt taps are under the styrofoam, opposite side from the mains right?
It's standing on that right now... maybe later.

the INITIAL charge should also be as long as possible (up to but no need to exceed 30hrs)?

https://hybridautomotive.com/pages/pc here is what I'm referencing, it's about a third or 40 percent down from top, "once the battery becomes full..."

but again isn't "full" much more than 172v for one of these? (Because 172 is slightly higher than the operating range of 20 to 80%)

Those halogens i was referencing are 90 watts each, think I could start the drain with them or for time sake would finding a pair of 150watts be best? I think I'm screwing up converting HA's single bulb wattage to the double in use in my application...

No measurable climb this time, sitting at 173.6 for 40 minutes now. The air coming out the back is slightly warmer than ambient (this is also a change, when I upgraded my fan contraption it was ambient air.)

and this blasted PSU is shrieking a steady high pitch... coil whine?

 

Taps are in the plug at the end of the orange cable.


ALL charges should be 30 hours.


Don't be surprised if you see 178V. NiMH voltage is weird and it also depends highly on temperature, so it's hard to draw conclusions, and there can be a lot of variation from one pack to the next.


For any single bulb referenced, double it. If it calls for a single 75W, you need 2X 150W in series.


Whine - Sometimes they do that. Pretty sure that it's no longer in my hearing threshold though as most over 40 can't hear >15KHz...

 

so the two 90s are nowhere near overkill, copy that.

I'm at 174.3 now, started like 7hrs ago.
I don't feel safe sleeping with this precarious fan rig... call it quits at 175 or restart tomorrow?I