HCH1 DIY IMA Reconditioning
#121
Re: HCH1 DIY IMA Reconditioning
A detectable improvement is expected. Your final discharge had over 5000mAh to 120V, and that should perform very well.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/09...47403238190778
Red is (+), black is (-), yellow is tach and blue is PWM. Basically, you short blue to black. The fan is a small leaf blower and require 100W+ when run in this method.
It's possible to remove the pack and spoof the system with only the junction board in an insight, but I don't know if there an analogy for the HCH1.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/09...47403238190778
Red is (+), black is (-), yellow is tach and blue is PWM. Basically, you short blue to black. The fan is a small leaf blower and require 100W+ when run in this method.
It's possible to remove the pack and spoof the system with only the junction board in an insight, but I don't know if there an analogy for the HCH1.
Just some history: Just coming back to this after about 5 months. Over the first week I did notice some slight degradation, but assumed that was because the battery was never back to 100% actual charge, only the 80% upper limit. The battery has been performing well with the noted exception of when this last week we did a lot of ~5 mph driving which depleted the battery to <10% SoC. Since we weren't just idling or above 15 mph, it never triggered a forced recharge while the SoC was so low. Soon after it threw a P1433 code and IMA light came on. I was not really paying much attention to the SoC until the light popped up, but its pretty clear what caused it. At such a long time at a depleted state some of the cells were probably a bit lower than others. Hopefully no significant permanent damage caused. After a longer drive at highway speeds the SoC is back to full and the IMA light is off but the P1433 is still there (haven't tried to clear it yet). Needless to say I probably have less than optimal balancing right now, so I want to setup an in-vehicle grid charge since I don't have nearly the time as I did last time.
Within this forum post 'SoC' seems to be a reference the dash gauge (~20-80%) rather than actual charge (0-100%). This is how I used it here, please correct me if I am wrong.
#122
Re: HCH1 DIY IMA Reconditioning
FWIW, SoC is an absolute term even to the car. The car tracks/report (through OBDII, CAN bus or proprietary means) true SoC, but it doesn't display it. The battery gauge on all cars is nothing more than an approximation of where the car thinks the SoC is relative to the usable capacity, not absolute capacity.
Many cheap 8A+ 12V power supplies on Amazon for ~$20.
IMHO, optimal would be to splice in a connector routed to the trunk. The connector would not alter the circuit. The PSU would have a connector that has (-) to both (-) and PWM lines with (+) to (+), so that when the PSU is connected, the PWM is grounded. When the PSU is not connected, the circuit is unaltered.
Schools of thought vary, but I recommend disconnecting the 12V battery entirely to wipe codes and de-electrify the entire car.
Many cheap 8A+ 12V power supplies on Amazon for ~$20.
IMHO, optimal would be to splice in a connector routed to the trunk. The connector would not alter the circuit. The PSU would have a connector that has (-) to both (-) and PWM lines with (+) to (+), so that when the PSU is connected, the PWM is grounded. When the PSU is not connected, the circuit is unaltered.
Schools of thought vary, but I recommend disconnecting the 12V battery entirely to wipe codes and de-electrify the entire car.
Thread
Topic Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2007 Civic
HCH II-Specific Discussions
97
08-05-2022 04:44 PM
helmy
HCH I-Specific Discussions
31
09-11-2020 07:05 AM
gaDJet
HCH II-Specific Discussions
6
11-07-2016 10:53 AM