2005 HCH1 battery fixing
I got an email notification that you posted this, but I don't see it here:
your saying multimeter the positive and negative posts from the hybrid battery? With car running? And then pop off the cover where those lines run and check those? What will this tell me? If it’s for sure battery?
No. I'm not saying that.
I'm saying turn the car off, pull the IPU lid and measure the 10 voltages.
Those 10 voltages need to be nearly identical to have a good battery.
your saying multimeter the positive and negative posts from the hybrid battery? With car running? And then pop off the cover where those lines run and check those? What will this tell me? If it’s for sure battery?
No. I'm not saying that.
I'm saying turn the car off, pull the IPU lid and measure the 10 voltages.
Those 10 voltages need to be nearly identical to have a good battery.
It's the connector you unplugged when you removed the old battery and connected when you installed the replacement - same orientation and pin count. It's orange and/or grey.
When taking readings, you do NOT unplug it. You probe the back of the connector where the wires go in using the pin pairings above.
When taking readings, you do NOT unplug it. You probe the back of the connector where the wires go in using the pin pairings above.
It's the connector you unplugged when you removed the old battery and connected when you installed the replacement - same orientation and pin count. It's orange and/or grey.
When taking readings, you do NOT unplug it. You probe the back of the connector where the wires go in using the pin pairings above.
When taking readings, you do NOT unplug it. You probe the back of the connector where the wires go in using the pin pairings above.
Without unplugging the connector, you jam your multimeter leads into the same holes the wires are going into. You need to get them deep enough to contact the exposed metal on the connector pins. (+) and (-) don't matter as your multimeter will simply report positive or negative voltage. The sign doesn't matter. The numeric value does.
Again, there is only ONE connector that shape, orientation and pin count going from the battery to the box. You unplugged it during removal and plugged it in during install. It is orange and/or gray based on memory. It is definitely connected to a thick orange shrouded wire bundle going to the battery.
Without unplugging the connector, you jam your multimeter leads into the same holes the wires are going into. You need to get them deep enough to contact the exposed metal on the connector pins. (+) and (-) don't matter as your multimeter will simply report positive or negative voltage. The sign doesn't matter. The numeric value does.
Without unplugging the connector, you jam your multimeter leads into the same holes the wires are going into. You need to get them deep enough to contact the exposed metal on the connector pins. (+) and (-) don't matter as your multimeter will simply report positive or negative voltage. The sign doesn't matter. The numeric value does.
yup the plug you circled is the exact one I was thinking. And okay so put lead in that plug far enough to hit bare metal then open the box it plugs into and check numeric volts in order listed above. Got it. Turn breaker off? Or leave it on?
Breaker position doesn't matter as the breaker "breaks" the pack between cells, and the individual sensor wires are unaffected. When mucking about with the battery, it is best to have the breaker in the off position for safety.
Alrighty. I will get on this when I get home and report back. Thank you!
just don’t wanna mess this up. Got one lead in the plug and the other I touch one at a time in the order above to check individual cells correct? Because above it looks as if you touch two points at one time.
You can't take a voltage reading with one lead.
I list the pin pairs in post #2. You need to have one lead on one pin and the other lead on the other pin. Multimeter needs to be set to DC voltage. If it's an auto-ranging, no worries. If you have to set the range, 20V is common and suitable here.
I list the pin pairs in post #2. You need to have one lead on one pin and the other lead on the other pin. Multimeter needs to be set to DC voltage. If it's an auto-ranging, no worries. If you have to set the range, 20V is common and suitable here.



