Wherever you can find/make a space for it.

 

i hear people popping the head lights with capacitor type boosters but I think the voltage too high like 18 volts :O I'll see where i can put one other wise i have to go with the capacitors i don't want it inside because of the battery acid

 

You have to have something charge the capacitors to 18V. Nothing in the car will do that.

1.6 million Prius drivers must be idiots. Battery acid in the passenger compartment. You should probably call somebody in the government and tell them how dangerous it is to save them. You'll be a hero saving so many lives.

You still don't get it. Wiping your butt with the money you spend on capacitors will be just as beneficial as anything the capacitors may do for you. You've got it in your head that you're right, and you're just wrong.

 

Nah they use AGM type batteries the risk is minimal compared to the regular ones nice try though... based on the photos it's pretty clear it was designed with ventilation anyways good luck when one of them grenades inside though.

it can happen nice good surge to the bulb, pop they are are gone filament is just a controlled short it can happen I pops my high beams before just flickering them a few times



i'm not going to worry about it much installing it in the cabin is a waste of time having to run long cables etc..


this suv is going to be returned to the dealer i bought it from as a Forced buy back (i'm in the works with the dealers bond to make it happen)...
since it was in a undisclosed accident.
at this point in time the goal is the put them out of business (the dealer) and a valid claim does exactly that. so they can't scam anyone else

 

Where do these ~18V surges come from? A capacitor in the circuit will for the most part be at system circuit voltage.

But I'm going to circle back to why do you feel the need to alter the 14V system?

 

many jumper packs use USB ports to charge the dc/dc converter could have got damaged (regulator or other cheap chip inside) and charged it to the max voltage of the converter chip maybe?? that is something that could happen



they did a sloppy way of implementing it... it's pretty clear 1 little tiny issue with a cable cascades to everything else just like the pos+ power cable the small defect with it causes the engine/transmission to run.sloppy.. and check engine codes that don't exist in reality.. the CEL just came back on for 420/430 i think they are false codes the temp was high enough 450C @ idle
(deceleration coming to a stop light)
according to the freeze frame data my fuel trims were +34% short term both bank (long term was also +34% both banks)

increasing the risk catastrophic failure (accident) when it lost power momentary on that off ramp and the rear brakes locked up yep nearly took two cars with me.. they were able to safely move out of the way as that exit is 5 Lanes wide that is when I figured out my rear brakes had not even been working previously since I bought it i could not figure out why I was stopping 3 feet passed the cross walk(an extra 8-12feet)
I felt like i was giving it the right amount of press as well..

Hot 210F aluminium is literally the worst conductor to use to pass current through yes the engine might have a lot of mass once the aluminium warms up it becomes a poor conductor


How is battery > engine > .chassis the correct way?


it should be Battery > Chassis > then what ever, even the Prius have it set this way along with all other cars


that is why

Even the ones that have it connected from the battery to the engine have it correctly done with a ground strap


Battery > single loom cable with multiple posts (same single cable from battery,engine to chassis)



going battery > then touching another ground cable > Engine > Chassis > Chassis (another location ) to the inverter [ electronic alternator]

7 connections of potential failure with the LONGEST electrical path possible


3 connections before the engine


battery then connects to a bolt that is shared with another ground cable(BCM i think) then touches the engine that is 3 connections there

that is why for the 2010 ground cable was revised to a break out cable to eliminate the 3 connections(to 2)before the engine block they even added a current sensor

 

This reads like a stream of consciousness. With respect to grounds and the complexity. You probably have not realized yet that all Six of those orange cables going from the inverter to the side of the transmission have shields on them grounded at both ends.

Same with the two orange DC cables going back to the battery.

Lots of "ground loops" many because of regulations.

As for aluminum conductivity versus temperature... I don't agree with your statement. Nor do many scientific studies on the subject.

At 100 degrees C or 212F Aluminum has a Resistivity of 3.064 micro-ohm * cm Annealed Copper at 2.51 ( slightly better) Drawn Copper 2.53 Iron at 11.02

Maybe they should put the Iron blocks back.

 

It helps to remember that many of his posts are like this. More importantly, he is working to force the seller to accept the return of the vehicle. With any luck, this experience will push him away from hybrids and we'll never hear from him again.

The last thing to remember is that he doesn't have even basic understanding of the subjects discussed. All he knows is that the resistance of aluminum can roughly double over the range of temperatures considered; however, he doesn't understand the basic arithmetic concept that doubling a very small number is still a very small number. Nor does he understand that a massive chunk of aluminum with huge cross section inherently has very low resistivity at any temperature below melting.

There are times he tricks you into thinking he is reasonable and is capable of understanding simple concepts. I've fallen into this trap several times. I have resolved myself to only replying when he is grossly misinformed and may spread FUD among those trying to decipher his blatherings.

 

were you the one that claimed that the inverter is always supplying power and it's found out that simply is not true.... how is 7 different connections a good reliable path ? not to mention the other cables that connect to the chassis are not copper based,, but aluminum based braided cables.. Aluminum has 61 percent of the conductivity of copper ... i'm sure aluminium oxide makes a good insulator.

 

ended up repairing the cable temporary using some copper wire I had laying around

you can see the damage it has on it