I had a thought, what gear are you trying to move the truck in? these trannys don't actually have reverse gear, just the electric motor is used for reverse, no motor assist directly. the engine produces power with one motor as a generator and the other uses it to back up. if it's dying in Rev on you, maybe it can't keep up with the current needed because the hybrid pack is so low? Just a thought maybe try forward where the engine can drive the truck?


so i don't know if this is helpful at all, but I hooked up the tech 2 and recorded a cold start, well few hours sitting, it wasn't first morning start. but shows the cam angle deg and some other stuff that might be helpful like load and maf/map readings. notice under the apm data, the current. it shows the 12v side, and I turn the ac on to show the load go up and then the hybrid battery current at idle and in gear under a little load. you can see -number is charging the battery, which it does most of the time at idle, just 1 or 2 amps since the state of charge is getting full. 70% is the max I've ever seen and it doesn't charge much above about 65%. the end of just screen recording of my phone app I use for quick viewing to see what's going on. it's key on for a sec, crank and then back up and park next door. you can see the timing the engine is running and what the current and voltages do.

hopefully it helps a bit to see what a running one is doing to compare and you something that helps.

 

It actually helps a lot to see something to compare to thank you.

I tried to check the cam sensor circuit, followed the testing from all data and found a high resistance so will have to see if I can repair the x2 connector.

I opened the place were the electric engines and the battery connect to the inverter. Used a multimeter to and could see AC coming from the generator which might mean the inverter is going to the problem for charging. But long as the Cam pos sensor isn’t working the timing and frequency is off so maybe that could be keeping the inverter from doing its job.

 

did you get anywhere with it?

 

Last weekend I finished tracing the wires for the CMP to the ECM everything from the CMP ABC pins to the X2 on the ECM check out. I think I’ll try swapping the CMP sensor with a GM official one just incase the off brand one I got is a dud. But if that doesn’t work I may need to take it in to have the ECM checked/reflashed or replaced. Unfortunately I don’t have the right tool to do a ECM swap and program. I’m still leaning toward need to get the engine running perfect before I try to tackle the charging side just to make sure the inverter is getting the correct power in. I know from past work with generators crap in makes crap out when it comes to power. Timing will affect phase, frequency, and amplitude if the inverter doesn’t get what it wants then it won’t produce, so I’m hoping that if the engine is running smooth it’ll charge on its own. Technically it charges fine when I do a jump assist so at the very least I know the inverter is doing fine on 12v to 300. 42v to 300 I do know the 300v turns the generator to start the engine so that part of the circuit is at least partially but don’t see 42v being turned to 300v to charge the generator battery. I also think if I have a bad ECM there could be a chance that it just isn’t telling the inverter side it’s ready for it to charge.

 

that makes sense. I have definitely seen auto parts store sensors be bad. I'm still curious is someone put a afm/vvt delete cam in it at some point and didn't use the adapter harness for the cam sensor. I see it often on the non hybrid of these trucks.

something like this.
Michigan Motorsports VVT to Non VVT Plug and Play Cam Sensor Adapter Connector Harness https://a.co/d/iVHV4sX

it does make sense that if the inverter is working one way it would work the other. so I agree with getting the engine running.

on that note, I have flashed modules on my yukon and my volt using gm official acdelco site, it's 40 or 50$ each vin for 2 years. I used a 140$ dongle called OBDxpro gt. it worked well, and the guys that make it are available for support. unlike the nanox China thing. you will need to check acdelco site for the computer requirements. I first tried using my older tuning laptop and it wouldn't work, they want newer windows and good amount of ram.

https://obdxpro.com/product/obdx-pro...cs-and-tuning/

I had 2 cars to do, so figured it would be cheaper than easier to deal with than a dealership. the dongle worked great, I had to watch YouTube to use gm's site. it's a bit picky haha.

hope you get it working.

 

I don’t know if the VVT delete takes out the CMP actuator solenoid but the harness you linked to is missing the two wires that go to the Actuator. That’s the piece right now that isn’t adjusting the cam to get the valves opening with the correct timing. The cam gear that matches the timing chain depending on the pressure from the actuator according to the tech2 software the actuator is staying in 0 position but it makes since that it would if it can’t see the position from the sensor.

 

yeah, I don't know all the details about how the delete works, but I believe they do normally come with a new cover without the sensor. but don't know forsure.

I honestly don't even know if you can turn vvt off with hptuners. these trucks aren't very well defined in their software. I can and have turned off afm. but don't know if vvt is listed since mine is sitll stock.

fingers crossed its the sensor, because I'm not sure how you'd fix it. ecm could be bad, but it's pretty rear for a ecm up gp bad. usually it's a harness.

have you tried cleaning the code? maybe it's one of those when the code is set it stays active till it reset?

oh and I just remembered about this pdf. I don't know if you've seen it. I might have already uploaded it lol. my memory isn't good these days.