I see a lot of stuff about that cam sensor code. the threads kinda go no where and replacing the sensors seems to know fix it. I don't know what to do with that. I might be able to look up a trouble tree for that code, but it will be Wednesday before I'm back at work.

do you know the history of this truck, like is it possible they replaced the cam doing a afm delete? if so, that would explain a lot.

 

I don’t know the history unfortunately. I do know it has a siren and flashing headlights / taillights driver in it under the dash. I did a vin check on it though no wrecks and nothing major in service.

All data says basically to check the harness for ohms and voltage and then start vehicle if nothing is found, then if p0341 comes on it has a bunch of mechanical checks, if not replace sensor. I haven’t seen P0341 and hope never to. It also has a MAP code but the map code basically is saying it’s not pulling in enough air the filter is new MAP sensor replaced, and throttle body cleaned and check that it moves freely. I probably just need to chase wires next I am thinking once I know all the signals are getting to where they need to go. It could have a weak spark to I was thinking or maybe even It just needs to sit and run with some fresh fluids so it can learn / calibrate itself.

Minor issue I’d like to fix is the radio is locked and none of my tools have a relearn vin in the special functions for the radio/body module. Do these need a relearn or is there a combo of buttons to press and code you put in? It’s the stock radio with cd.

 

the radio, I think might need to have access to the acdelco tis website to unlock it. I've only seen a few guys do it, using a mdi module and the Delco site but I don't know the details. might have to ask over on the Tahoe board, this is more tahoe specific not just hybrid surff. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/foru...lectronics.16/

just a thought, at some point they changed the harness routing, but I've heard the early Suvs had a issue of the harnesses getting worn thru right at the bracket where the alternator would be. there a metal bracket with a plastic clip the harness sits in that I guess it would rub the metal and wear into the wires. Just something to check.

with the flashing lights, I wonder if it was used as a road side truck, like surveying or something. my thought was if they put a non afm cam in it, but didn't tune out the afm it will miss fire and run horribly. but sounds like it might not be that.


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Added some stp high mileage oil conditioner and 5 gallons of gas with a bottle of sea foam high mileage. Quieted significantly. And made some short videos hopefully they’ll post. Sound is loudest at the muffler.

 

I couldn’t get it to post so I put it on YouTube or tried 😅

 

 

Checked in tech2 win for misfires at start up has a 3 on one cylinder and 5 on another. And new codes only have 9 now

 

Also, If I watch the screen (ebcm) with the battery voltages they will all be cruising along at 12 to 14 volts then there will be a sudden dip on the middle modules to 7 to 9 and that’s when the engine stalls. There is one code for parasitic voltage draw I’m thinking something is kicking on that is pulling high amperage and the middle modules (I say modules but it appears to be monitoring them in pairs) are weaker so the voltage drops because of the amperage pull. So either have a short somewhere that is a battery killer or those modules are too weak to handle something that is turning on when the engine reaches operating temperature maybe? It’s probably about 10 minutes give or take 3 minutes ish of run time when it happens

 

the knocking in the exhaust is interesting but not coming from the engine? huh. do you have an exhaust valve right after the muffler, it's a spring loaded valve. you might wire it open as a test.




​​my thoughts are the hybrid battery is shot. it can't handle even a small load. something like the cooling fans coming on maybe? you should be about to watch the current draw on the hybrid battery in live data. a good pack can handle a 100amp draw with pretty even voltage across all. but from watching mine, it needs to handle atleast as 20amp load with the engine running without more than 1.5v different between cells or its not going to be happy.

the map sensor is a legit fault thou. might work on that one. make sure it's got power ground and a usable signal. that will make the truck run badly. the misfire doesn't sound to bad for now, if it was constantly counting miss firing while running I'd worry about it. but a few counts here and there aren't to bad while you're trying to figure out why I can't run smoothly.

 

All that noise engine and exhaust was that valve. Still dies after about 10 minutes but sounds normal till it stalls now