"Stop Safely Now"
#231
07-28-2012, 06:39 AM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
My dealer replaced my OEM battery without listing it but this was during a series of visits for a ATF leak, it'a an FE only.
Anyway, I noticed also no date code on it. I thought that all batteries had date code. A recent Autozone battery that I purchased had a date code along with the Exide that I replaced.
Anyway, I noticed also no date code on it. I thought that all batteries had date code. A recent Autozone battery that I purchased had a date code along with the Exide that I replaced.
#233
07-28-2012, 01:54 PM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
Getting back to a question I asked earlier, does anyone know how long diagnostic codes are stored before they're wiped automatically from the system (if they even are)? I'm worried that traction battery blend door actuator code is still relevant, but maybe it was just never cleared.
Slightly off-topic, but I bought an awesome Craftsman code scanner last night and hooked it up, but there were no codes stored. Dealership tech obviously cleared all the codes, which makes no sense cuz I specifically told them I didn't want them to fix anything and rape me on parts and labor -- why clear the codes if they didn't fix anything? So now I'm starting from scratch with a new battery and will see what codes, if any, get thrown in the future.
#234
07-30-2012, 05:39 AM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
Figure that's a date code of some sort then, likely 07 meaning year, H maybe month, etc, etc. We're not too far off so figured I'd get it and the alternator loaded tested --- naturally both passed but figured since the sight glass shows a red or orange center AND it's approaching the 4yr lifespan I'm getting it changed out with a new 72mo -96R battery. That will help minimize other things to troubleshoot and hopefully keep the codes and engine from puking on me again. I'll let everyone know what I find out later.
Getting back to a question I asked earlier, does anyone know how long diagnostic codes are stored before they're wiped automatically from the system (if they even are)? I'm worried that traction battery blend door actuator code is still relevant, but maybe it was just never cleared.
Slightly off-topic, but I bought an awesome Craftsman code scanner last night and hooked it up, but there were no codes stored. Dealership tech obviously cleared all the codes, which makes no sense cuz I specifically told them I didn't want them to fix anything and rape me on parts and labor -- why clear the codes if they didn't fix anything? So now I'm starting from scratch with a new battery and will see what codes, if any, get thrown in the future.
Getting back to a question I asked earlier, does anyone know how long diagnostic codes are stored before they're wiped automatically from the system (if they even are)? I'm worried that traction battery blend door actuator code is still relevant, but maybe it was just never cleared.
Slightly off-topic, but I bought an awesome Craftsman code scanner last night and hooked it up, but there were no codes stored. Dealership tech obviously cleared all the codes, which makes no sense cuz I specifically told them I didn't want them to fix anything and rape me on parts and labor -- why clear the codes if they didn't fix anything? So now I'm starting from scratch with a new battery and will see what codes, if any, get thrown in the future.
#235
08-08-2012, 08:36 AM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
Interesting that you say that. The dealership didn't even go in that direction even though the tech apparently saw that B1318 code that they listed on the work order. They just said the MECS pump and the traction blend door actuator needed replaced. But the codes the dealer listed aren't even on the MECS pump TSB, and it was working fine the 2 times I've checked it now, so I don't see how they thought the pump needed replaced. Trying to pull a fast one??
The battery is a BXT-96R that I see listed as original equipment but I see no date codes other than an etching in the plastic near the sight glass that says 07H02B478. The site glass shows an orange or red center with a green looking outer ring, but I've read that sight glass only indicates one cell's state and not the state of the battery as a whole so it could be better or worse. So it sounds to me like the battery could be a culprit here. Anyone know how to figure out the manufacture date on these? I'll get it load tested along with the alternator to see where the issue lies.
About that blend door actuator...
I noticed while detailing the car after I bought it that a screw at the top of the rear airflow duct (black plastic egg-crate looking thing to the left of the battery in the cargo area) had a very loose screw -- I'm thinking someone was already back there to replace the actuator or do something else. How long will a code like that stay in the car's brain if it was already repaired?
EDIT:
The service advisor said he wrote all the codes down that the tech gave him. Code "P0A8P" doesn't exist and I think instead of "P" at the end, the tech said "B, C, or D" and the advisor heard it wrong and wrote "P". "P0A8B, C, and D" codes are for 14 volt power module system voltage --- could this also be related to the 12V battery, or the hybrid batteries. Google isn't much help thus far.
The battery is a BXT-96R that I see listed as original equipment but I see no date codes other than an etching in the plastic near the sight glass that says 07H02B478. The site glass shows an orange or red center with a green looking outer ring, but I've read that sight glass only indicates one cell's state and not the state of the battery as a whole so it could be better or worse. So it sounds to me like the battery could be a culprit here. Anyone know how to figure out the manufacture date on these? I'll get it load tested along with the alternator to see where the issue lies.
About that blend door actuator...
I noticed while detailing the car after I bought it that a screw at the top of the rear airflow duct (black plastic egg-crate looking thing to the left of the battery in the cargo area) had a very loose screw -- I'm thinking someone was already back there to replace the actuator or do something else. How long will a code like that stay in the car's brain if it was already repaired?
EDIT:
The service advisor said he wrote all the codes down that the tech gave him. Code "P0A8P" doesn't exist and I think instead of "P" at the end, the tech said "B, C, or D" and the advisor heard it wrong and wrote "P". "P0A8B, C, and D" codes are for 14 volt power module system voltage --- could this also be related to the 12V battery, or the hybrid batteries. Google isn't much help thus far.
Here's the codes I copied down from my mechanic's paperwork... and some info I compiled online
P0A7C - Motor electronics over temperature - transaxle cooling system
P0A7C - FF PCM
P0A80 - 20 BCM - Replace hybrid battery pack (obviously this was triggered by the MECS failure or disconnecting the 12v)
P1A0D - PCM - generator disabled
P0A3E - generator motor over temperature
C1524-A0 - ABS
B1318-A0 - ABS - battery voltage Low
B1318 - 20 GEM - battery voltage low
It seems to me, that if it was an MECS problem, typically you will see P0A7C, P1A0D and P0A3E. I think you may have a 12v battery problem....if not more. My 12V went bad right before my MECS failed. To test it, check voltage using a multimeter while running. Then turn off the vehicle and turn on the headlights for 20 seconds. Then check the voltage again. Mine went from 12+v down to under 10v. It couldn't hold a charge.
For the record, my 12V battery went first, and when I replaced it that's what threw the ABS codes and probably the B1318 Code.
#236
08-08-2012, 10:07 AM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
Thanks for the feedback Tim K.
I had a local shop test the old battery and alternator with no problems found after the issue, but since I knew the battery was original, had at least one bad cell, and was almost 5 years old, I had them replace it.
I had to leave town for a week and haven't had a chance to drive it till yesterday, but it's working fine so far. I'll drive it on the same freeway in the same traffic all this week to see if I can duplicate the problem, and I have the code scanner in the car in case it does. My guess is I fixed the problem with the new battery, but we'll see. I also have 2 new FP51 air filters on order from Amazon (free shipping since over $25 for both) since the old one looks to be pretty dirty looking. Figure for less than $14 apiece, I can't go wrong there.
Will update this thread further once I determine whether or not I solved my problem. Love the mileage, the looks, and the ride quality of this thing though.
Anyone look into the new C-Max Hybrid Ford is coming out with shortly? Better mileage, cheaper, and bigger than the Prius V, so I'm looking forward to checking them out when the dealerships get them.
I had a local shop test the old battery and alternator with no problems found after the issue, but since I knew the battery was original, had at least one bad cell, and was almost 5 years old, I had them replace it.
I had to leave town for a week and haven't had a chance to drive it till yesterday, but it's working fine so far. I'll drive it on the same freeway in the same traffic all this week to see if I can duplicate the problem, and I have the code scanner in the car in case it does. My guess is I fixed the problem with the new battery, but we'll see. I also have 2 new FP51 air filters on order from Amazon (free shipping since over $25 for both) since the old one looks to be pretty dirty looking. Figure for less than $14 apiece, I can't go wrong there.
Will update this thread further once I determine whether or not I solved my problem. Love the mileage, the looks, and the ride quality of this thing though.
Anyone look into the new C-Max Hybrid Ford is coming out with shortly? Better mileage, cheaper, and bigger than the Prius V, so I'm looking forward to checking them out when the dealerships get them.
#237
08-11-2012, 04:26 PM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
Okay, so after replacing the 12V battery under the hood I've had no other problems with it, and that's driving in even worse heat and stop-and-go conditions than what caused the issue in the first place. I think the problems are solved and I'm averaging over 34mpg now, according to both my calculations and the trip computer.
#238
08-25-2012, 10:55 PM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
Hi All,
My 2006 MMH with 80K miles got the stop safely now. We were going 70 MPH on I-80. Filled up at Shell 20 minutes prior as the 50 miles to empty light had come on (Sacramento, CA). Exited at UC Davis. Turned off car and restarted. Shut off again at 3500 RPM. Happened twice more. Last time was in Dixon. Then I just kept it below 2000 RPM for 70 miles to get home. Nothing I have read in the last 24 pages say anything about high speed/ high RPM shut downs. I will check for flow on the MECS tomorrow. When I tried to accelerate hard, it shut down immediately. Slow and steady got us home. My apologies to anyone stuck behind me at 45 MPH uphill on the Interstate!
My 2006 MMH with 80K miles got the stop safely now. We were going 70 MPH on I-80. Filled up at Shell 20 minutes prior as the 50 miles to empty light had come on (Sacramento, CA). Exited at UC Davis. Turned off car and restarted. Shut off again at 3500 RPM. Happened twice more. Last time was in Dixon. Then I just kept it below 2000 RPM for 70 miles to get home. Nothing I have read in the last 24 pages say anything about high speed/ high RPM shut downs. I will check for flow on the MECS tomorrow. When I tried to accelerate hard, it shut down immediately. Slow and steady got us home. My apologies to anyone stuck behind me at 45 MPH uphill on the Interstate!
#239
01-14-2013, 02:48 PM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
Found this forum after "SSN" occured on 1/2/13 while idling at local repair shop picking up my wife's car. 2006 FEH 2WD w/ 93K miles. Shop replaced the MECS pump and all seemed fine for 2 weeks when it happened again, this time at 65 MPH on the Interstate.
Shop now says TBCM is bad and it has to go to a Ford dealer to be replaced. They say Ford is familiar with the problem and have a service bulletin about it.
Anyone else have the TBCM fail? Is it covered by the 8 year 100,000 mile warranty? If not, how much to replace it?
Any help would be appreciated. Just paid the darn thing off December 20th and never had any trouble with it before this (go figure).
Shop now says TBCM is bad and it has to go to a Ford dealer to be replaced. They say Ford is familiar with the problem and have a service bulletin about it.
Anyone else have the TBCM fail? Is it covered by the 8 year 100,000 mile warranty? If not, how much to replace it?
Any help would be appreciated. Just paid the darn thing off December 20th and never had any trouble with it before this (go figure).
#240
01-14-2013, 03:51 PM
Re: "Stop Safely Now"
Found this forum after "SSN" occured on 1/2/13 while idling at local repair shop picking up my wife's car. 2006 FEH 2WD w/ 93K miles. Shop replaced the MECS pump and all seemed fine for 2 weeks when it happened again, this time at 65 MPH on the Interstate.
Shop now says TBCM is bad and it has to go to a Ford dealer to be replaced. They say Ford is familiar with the problem and have a service bulletin about it.
Anyone else have the TBCM fail? Is it covered by the 8 year 100,000 mile warranty? If not, how much to replace it?
Any help would be appreciated. Just paid the darn thing off December 20th and never had any trouble with it before this (go figure).
Shop now says TBCM is bad and it has to go to a Ford dealer to be replaced. They say Ford is familiar with the problem and have a service bulletin about it.
Anyone else have the TBCM fail? Is it covered by the 8 year 100,000 mile warranty? If not, how much to replace it?
Any help would be appreciated. Just paid the darn thing off December 20th and never had any trouble with it before this (go figure).
GaryG
