New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop

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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #21  
wptski's Avatar
Imported from Detroit
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,051
From: Michigan
Default Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop

Originally Posted by Bill Winney
Not bad, thanks much. The shop manual looks like it could be done as you did. So good to confirm it.

I'm also kind of thinking through half shaft replacement as I've developed a vibration that feels like a U-joint going bad. I replaced the u-joints last summer and the vibration hasn't changed. Been to the Ford dealer a couple of time for accident repairs and they declared the CV joints OK. Still I'm feeling that vibration...

Any reason you couldn't have heated the new tone ring in the kitchen oven? An old friend, Navy EMCM(SS), told me once that it is better to heat things in an oven, even new bearings, than to use a torch. He used to put bearings on things that way and seemed to have a good track record.
Prior to the newer induction bearing heaters, we had these units that used a heavy oil which was heated by a element. Using a torch to heat a bearing is a no-no. In a pinch, a torch can be used to heat the oil in a metal container. The oil just heats the part in a more uniform way.
 

Last edited by wptski; Jan 2, 2011 at 02:18 PM.
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 02:21 PM
  #22  
travelover's Avatar
Thread Starter
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Feral Engineer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 496
From: Detroit Area
Default Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop

Originally Posted by Bill Winney
Not bad, thanks much. The shop manual looks like it could be done as you did. So good to confirm it.
I used the shop manual, as well

I'm also kind of thinking through half shaft replacement as I've developed a vibration that feels like a U-joint going bad. I replaced the u-joints last summer and the vibration hasn't changed. Been to the Ford dealer a couple of time for accident repairs and they declared the CV joints OK. Still I'm feeling that vibration...
Could also be a tire. Tires can create multiple orders as they wear (first order is once per tire revolution). It would be nice if you could temporarily swap a tire or two with another Escape.

Any reason you couldn't have heated the new tone ring in the kitchen oven? An old friend, Navy EMCM(SS), told me once that it is better to heat things in an oven, even new bearings, than to use a torch. He used to put bearings on things that way and seemed to have a good track record.
The larger the part, the more important it is to heat it evenly (like an oven). This ring quickly equalizes heat around its perimeter, so you could heat it on a burner, in the oven, or with a torch.
 
Old Jan 6, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #23  
Bill Winney's Avatar
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Default Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop

OK, got it. Thanks.
 
Old Feb 3, 2011 | 04:52 AM
  #24  
EagleFan89's Avatar
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 44
Default Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop

I've replaced a replacement tone ring already. Seriously will never by an FEH again.
 
Old Feb 3, 2011 | 08:10 AM
  #25  
travelover's Avatar
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Feral Engineer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 496
From: Detroit Area
Default Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop

Originally Posted by EagleFan89
I've replaced a replacement tone ring already. Seriously will never by an FEH again.

Yea, the tone ring design sucks, but it is not unique to the hybrid.
 
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #26  
colchiro's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 488
From: ND
Default Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop

Do they still use the tone ring in newer vehicles, like my '09?
 
Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #27  
prototype3a's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 28
Default Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop

I wanted to report in that I finally replaced both the outer tie rods (cracked boots) and an abs tone ring today on my '06 FEH with 60k miles.

It wasn't a terribly difficult repair but it did require a few car specific tools. You'll need a ball joint fork and may tear up the boot on the lower A arm ball joint as well as those on the outer tie rods. To remove the nuts that hold the wheel hub to the drive shaft you'll need a ~31mm socket and a powerful impact wrench. We used a 1-1/4" socket and it seemed to work okay but it was a loose fit on the nut. I didn't have a pair of calipers handy to actually measure the nut but a 30mm socket would not fit.

The old ring came off very easily and we cleaned the rust off the shaft with a wire brush. Installing the new ring was a bit tricky. We ended up using a brass rod and a hammer to "press" it into place. However, if you happened to have a bit of pipe the right size, it would be much easier to knock into place. This part is also much easier if you have a helper to hold the drive shaft for you.

We replaced the right front tone ring, both outer tie rod ends and changed the oil in about 2.5 hours with several breaks to scratch our heads and sip some beer.
 

Last edited by prototype3a; Jul 21, 2012 at 11:30 AM.
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