Who has done it? I'm surprised to see no posts about it in the forum or anywhere else for that matter. Not even youtube videos. I assume the turn signals will need load resistors to prevent hyperflash?

Reducing the current draw of all lights by 1/2 or 3/4 sounds like a good idea on an electric car. For instance, my interior dome light and map lights get HOT to the touch. Can't be good. Together it could be a 10A+ drop. Any downsides?

 

Yeah, not many people seem to do it and that's kind of puzzling to me as well. Here's a nice article on it at "TopGearbox" which you've probably already read since you mention "hyperflash." It sounds like a good idea to me, too, as long as the replacement LEDs are in-spec and they throw the kind of light you need.

On the headlamps it's a different can of worms. My '10 has these very funky internal reflectors and I'm not sure they would work well at all with an LED replacement bulb, which would probably be very bright, but blinding to oncoming drivers. You could probably do your fog lamps if your car is so equipped.

https://www.topgearbox.com/cars/your...s-to-your-car/

 

The headlights are possible if you get ones that work with reflectors and aim them. I know the bulbs themselves rotate to set the beam pattern. But on some cars the lights interfere with the radio reception or cause errors, etc.

I'm going to start simple with interior and non essential ones.

 

I changed over all but the dashboard lights long ago.

The headlights were $50/pair on Amazon. Amazing difference. Ordered two more sets for my other halogen-lit vehicles.
The clearance lights were easy, just get the right voltage and socket type. Most are the 194-style. IMPORTANT: If it is behind a red lens, get only red LEDs.
The turn signal lights required a resistor to prevent rapid flashing. You only need them in the rear.
Dome lights made a huge difference.
I spent less than $100 for everything.

 

Happy that I only need one resistor set. Any idea on keywords for the headlights or did you just use the vehicle fit guide. So far I only ordered interior lights. They were 578s in a 6 pack. Hopefully that covers the cargo area too.

 

Headlights https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Going on 2 years now.

Seems like the rear cargo area light was a bigger bulb. I might have used one of those rectangular arrays that comes with the correct plug to match the bulb base. Might be a true replacement now. Those panels seem to have less lifespan.

 

The roof stoplight is worth doing, but it's a bit involved. Mine needed a lot of cleanup, and some of the sockets were bad.
Get the brightest Red LEDs to fit that you can.

 

No problems with beam pattern on those? Or anyone flashing lights at you because you brightlighted them? My halogens look aimed already so that sounds like a painless swap.

 

No problems with aim, did not touch it.

 

Looks pretty good for $40. I dove way too deep into it last night. The only flaw of that builb is that it doesn't rotate. Another video tested it at 800 lux vs the ~300 of the stock bulb. Also saw what it took to make a projector housing and it looks like way too much trouble.

At 2:57