Kill switch for the ICE
#11
02-22-2007, 05:50 PM
Re: Kill switch for the ICE
Hi,
Maybe the brakes stay pressurized, but is the steering as responsive in an emergency maneuver? Its not the typical drive that counts, but that once or twice in your life where you hope you are paying attention that needs to be considered. Again. I have not tried it but it certainly goes against the grain to drive without the assist completely.
Maybe you are right, but it seems to me that may be too much distraction. With pulse and glide this, and FAS that, I would not be surprised if someone hypermilles into a lamp pole. Cars have a simple interface (gas pedal to go, brake pedal to stop and a wheel for direction) for a reason: to keep our attention on the road. I don't know what the traffic is like in Jupiter but in Montreal you need to keep your eye on the road or you'll have people crawling all over you.
Again, just my 2¢.
Roch
Maybe the brakes stay pressurized, but is the steering as responsive in an emergency maneuver? Its not the typical drive that counts, but that once or twice in your life where you hope you are paying attention that needs to be considered. Again. I have not tried it but it certainly goes against the grain to drive without the assist completely.
Maybe you are right, but it seems to me that may be too much distraction. With pulse and glide this, and FAS that, I would not be surprised if someone hypermilles into a lamp pole. Cars have a simple interface (gas pedal to go, brake pedal to stop and a wheel for direction) for a reason: to keep our attention on the road. I don't know what the traffic is like in Jupiter but in Montreal you need to keep your eye on the road or you'll have people crawling all over you.
Again, just my 2¢.
Roch
#12
02-22-2007, 05:54 PM
Re: Kill switch for the ICE
Do you think we could MAYBE have ONE thread here on GH where GaryG and gpsman1 don't turn the thread into a personal argument? Seriously guys....you disagree on everything, you never get along, please spare us all your personal disputes. Express your opinions and move on. We don't need yet another thread where the two of you go back and forth over who is right, who is wrong, and who knows the most. It is getting old. Post your thoughts and let it go.
What do you suggest to improve your mileage? Looks bad to me. But what do I know?
GaryG
#13
02-22-2007, 06:41 PM
#14
02-22-2007, 06:44 PM
Re: Kill switch for the ICE
Classic! You probably weren't meaning to be funny, but that was great. Hypermiling into a lamp pole probably wouldn't be too "green" would it?
#15
02-22-2007, 09:39 PM
Hybrid and Ethanol Expert
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: All over the Central U.S.
Posts: 3,616
Re: Kill switch for the ICE
Is the move from the driveway to the gate uphill, downhill, or flat?
If it is on a decline, you could move the car to the gate, and past the gate, in Neutral before starting if in the a.m. That would avoid cold idle time. Or, the reverse, you could shut the car off when you reach the gate on the way home, and coast into your driveway in Neutral. If it's flat, not much you can do. General rule of thumb: if you are going to park for more than 30 seconds, turn the key off. Less than 30 seconds, let the car run if already started.
Inclines are not bad, if you go uphill with a cold engine, and down with a warm one that would allow EV.
If it is on a decline, you could move the car to the gate, and past the gate, in Neutral before starting if in the a.m. That would avoid cold idle time. Or, the reverse, you could shut the car off when you reach the gate on the way home, and coast into your driveway in Neutral. If it's flat, not much you can do. General rule of thumb: if you are going to park for more than 30 seconds, turn the key off. Less than 30 seconds, let the car run if already started.
Inclines are not bad, if you go uphill with a cold engine, and down with a warm one that would allow EV.
That was a mouth full, you do make interesting points.
So here is her drive suggest away:
To
Open gate
Start car go back wards
Close gate while car idles
Drive up incline then decline to stop sign
Pull onto main road (incline)
Flattens for a sec then decline
Turn into parking lot (decline) and park
From
Back out of parking spot
Incline out of parking lot
Turn onto main road (incline)
Slight decline then turn onto our street
Our street is incline then decline
Open gate while car idles
Pull in kill car and close gate
Any other route adds more and greater inclines plus distance, from .2 to 5 miles there is no route without hills.
Clif
So here is her drive suggest away:
To
Open gate
Start car go back wards
Close gate while car idles
Drive up incline then decline to stop sign
Pull onto main road (incline)
Flattens for a sec then decline
Turn into parking lot (decline) and park
From
Back out of parking spot
Incline out of parking lot
Turn onto main road (incline)
Slight decline then turn onto our street
Our street is incline then decline
Open gate while car idles
Pull in kill car and close gate
Any other route adds more and greater inclines plus distance, from .2 to 5 miles there is no route without hills.
Clif
Last edited by gpsman1; 02-22-2007 at 10:26 PM.
#16
02-22-2007, 10:25 PM
Hybrid and Ethanol Expert
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: All over the Central U.S.
Posts: 3,616
Re: Kill switch for the ICE
You ARE wrong Gary... ( or Wayne mis-spoke to you )
I shouldn't have to do this, but to futher entertain the readers, and to educate you on the facts, I will. I apologize in advance for being WAY off topic.
#1 The oil was a FREEBIE oil change from my Ford Dealer who sold me the car. Why would I turn down something that was FREE??? Even if not my first choice of brand of oil? The oil was changed by the dealer about 3000 miles prior. The oil was filled to EXACTLY the correct level that Ford reccommends. The FACT is... Wayne Gerdes believes the correct oil level is one quart lower than Ford. Wayne believes running your car at the LOW mark ( or add mark ) on the dipstick lowers friction by having less oil in the pan for the car to move around... increasing mileage a trivial amount. Wanye offered to drain my MotorCraft oil, and replace it with 3, or 3.5 quarts of Mobil One, in exchange for me driving him to Dearborn.
#2 My tires WERE under pressure because I had just driven from an altitude of about 6,000 feet ( Colorado ) to 600 feet above sea level ( Illinois ) in one day... stopping only for food and gas. Wayne and I had a long discussion about this... neither one of us expected altitude to have such a large effect on tire pressure. Turns out, it really does. 40psi in Denver = 33psi in Chicago if you don't change anything. My tires WERE CORRECT for my house. They were under inflated only at Wayne's house.
#3 It is a very common practice for people in Northern Mid-West states to partially, or totally block the air-flow to the grille in winter to trap more engine heat. Especially on Diesels and older gasoline cars. You are one of the few people, since you live in Florida, who hadn't heard of this technique until Wayne told you. My father has done this, my grandfather had done this; I'd seen it done 100 times. 2005 was the first winter with my FEH. I arrived in Chicago without a cardboard radiator block because it was October 7th, and about 55 degrees outside!!! I, like most, did not consider this winter! After I told Wayne the FEH needed to be 140'F to enter EV mode he immediately wanted to do the radiator block then, on the spot. I was nervous about this due to the relatively mild ( 40's & 50's ) weather. I would have done this at home in December, but never October. Turns out in retrospect, the FEH did fine with the radiator blocked in October.
Lastly, I have informed people it is very possible to get excellent MPG without taking EXTREEME driving measures like yourself and Wayne. And my vehicle will probably last twice as long as yours, since I don't abuse my car. I love my FEH, and plan to keep it 10 years. How many gallons of gas will you need to save Gary to accumulate $27,000 and buy a new FEH every 5 years???
Sorry to all those who don't care. Enough said.
-John
Correct me if I'm wrong, but Wayne said when he met you that your oil was overfilled, your tires were under pressure and he had to correct all of your crap before getting to Dearborn. You took credit for Wayne's knowedge like you do here on this board. Again, what have you done to improve anyone's mileage or safety?
GaryG
I shouldn't have to do this, but to futher entertain the readers, and to educate you on the facts, I will. I apologize in advance for being WAY off topic.
#1 The oil was a FREEBIE oil change from my Ford Dealer who sold me the car. Why would I turn down something that was FREE??? Even if not my first choice of brand of oil? The oil was changed by the dealer about 3000 miles prior. The oil was filled to EXACTLY the correct level that Ford reccommends. The FACT is... Wayne Gerdes believes the correct oil level is one quart lower than Ford. Wayne believes running your car at the LOW mark ( or add mark ) on the dipstick lowers friction by having less oil in the pan for the car to move around... increasing mileage a trivial amount. Wanye offered to drain my MotorCraft oil, and replace it with 3, or 3.5 quarts of Mobil One, in exchange for me driving him to Dearborn.
#2 My tires WERE under pressure because I had just driven from an altitude of about 6,000 feet ( Colorado ) to 600 feet above sea level ( Illinois ) in one day... stopping only for food and gas. Wayne and I had a long discussion about this... neither one of us expected altitude to have such a large effect on tire pressure. Turns out, it really does. 40psi in Denver = 33psi in Chicago if you don't change anything. My tires WERE CORRECT for my house. They were under inflated only at Wayne's house.
#3 It is a very common practice for people in Northern Mid-West states to partially, or totally block the air-flow to the grille in winter to trap more engine heat. Especially on Diesels and older gasoline cars. You are one of the few people, since you live in Florida, who hadn't heard of this technique until Wayne told you. My father has done this, my grandfather had done this; I'd seen it done 100 times. 2005 was the first winter with my FEH. I arrived in Chicago without a cardboard radiator block because it was October 7th, and about 55 degrees outside!!! I, like most, did not consider this winter! After I told Wayne the FEH needed to be 140'F to enter EV mode he immediately wanted to do the radiator block then, on the spot. I was nervous about this due to the relatively mild ( 40's & 50's ) weather. I would have done this at home in December, but never October. Turns out in retrospect, the FEH did fine with the radiator blocked in October.
Lastly, I have informed people it is very possible to get excellent MPG without taking EXTREEME driving measures like yourself and Wayne. And my vehicle will probably last twice as long as yours, since I don't abuse my car. I love my FEH, and plan to keep it 10 years. How many gallons of gas will you need to save Gary to accumulate $27,000 and buy a new FEH every 5 years???
Sorry to all those who don't care. Enough said.
-John
Correct me if I'm wrong, but Wayne said when he met you that your oil was overfilled, your tires were under pressure and he had to correct all of your crap before getting to Dearborn. You took credit for Wayne's knowedge like you do here on this board. Again, what have you done to improve anyone's mileage or safety?
GaryG
#18
02-23-2007, 04:19 AM
Re: Kill switch for the ICE
What I really get a kick out of is the way the fear card was played and you have chicken little running around crying the sky is falling. The fact is, I have not hit a lamp pole in a good week now! Thank God Jupiter has outlawed moving lamp poles. If they'd only stop kids from walking their dogs, I'd be home free without an accident for a change. Oh well, my FEH has about had it anyway with all those fake shifts, "N" coasting and driving around with no power steering. Anyone know where I can get a good deal on a new one?
GaryG
#19
02-23-2007, 06:13 AM
Re: Kill switch for the ICE
Some of us drive in conditions you wouldn't be familiar with. Some of us are more concerned with safety and comfort. Some of us can have a civil discussion on this forum.
Some of us can't....but like you said....what do you know?
Last edited by Tim K; 02-23-2007 at 06:15 AM.
#20
02-23-2007, 07:05 AM
Re: Kill switch for the ICE
What, exactly does the 'double tap' do to the computer?
I would love to have a button on the steering wheel that caused the same effect, asking the car to please shut down the ice, without burning off coasting speed to do so.
My Highlander Hybrid just shuts down the ice when I take my foot off, no shifting, no tapping, no bs, no waiting. If my Escape did that with the same ease, my mileage would be much better.
So, is there a pin on the computer pin out that is the 'please shut down if appropriate' pin, or do we have to have some combination of regen and brake pedal, or what? If such a thing could be identified, I'd wire it to the coast button on the steering wheel in a skinny minute.
MM
I would love to have a button on the steering wheel that caused the same effect, asking the car to please shut down the ice, without burning off coasting speed to do so.
My Highlander Hybrid just shuts down the ice when I take my foot off, no shifting, no tapping, no bs, no waiting. If my Escape did that with the same ease, my mileage would be much better.
So, is there a pin on the computer pin out that is the 'please shut down if appropriate' pin, or do we have to have some combination of regen and brake pedal, or what? If such a thing could be identified, I'd wire it to the coast button on the steering wheel in a skinny minute.
MM
