Heh, well ev mode is no longer activating with outside temp of 85f. I am running on gas the whole time but have no codes besides what I had already. Is there a temp limit on the battery? All the BCM stuff says 42C temperature.

I looked in the SM on the mustang site and it said 4.3 QT so probably good there. It was spilling out when I opened it and closed it back up.

 

I don't know any official value, but on the pre 2010 models, the HV battery does little more than start the engine above 100°F. EV mode is rare and the charge/discharge limits are very low.

 

The fan turns on but doesn't run constantly. So I guess you have to drive with a/c on which at the current moment I can't. Funny when I did my fill and divide by miles I get 32MPG. Used 8.735 gal over 281ish miles... but it was with ev mode. Those 30s in torque are not wrong I guess... but the dash AVG is.

 

Dash meters can be very inaccurate. I would trust calculations over the meter any day.

If the interior isn't being cooled, then the battery can't cool itself. You should be able to see the charge/discharge limits of the battery to be very low when the temperature increases.

 

Dang... its $230 to fix the A/C for new TXV, Condenser, Drier and a vacuum pump to draw down the system before filling. I dub this car BOAH... bust out another hundred.

 

I generally loathe and dread A/C repairs but it's good that you're replacing the receiver/drier. They are known to fail on the 2008/2012 models wherein the dessicant bag ruptures and the particles travel everywhere throughout the system, clogging everything! Then everything else must *come out* including the evaporator(s), all the lines, the whole shebang. Holy Losing Your Cool, Batman! This is why if the A/C doesn't work on these cars when you're looking to buy, you should think it over. If there is "moldy" smell from the A/C vents or any kind of noises, ..........

FTM has a vid. about that too, featuring his own Escape, which appears to use the same receiver/drier as the Hybrids but in a different location with different-shaped lines. He is "superman" with his own shop, lift, tools, gauges, A/C kit and discounted pricing and he did it preemptively to avoid the Kryptonite. (This video was filmed when he was still working for a dealership.)


"They've got a little problem...where the bag inside of there that absorbs all the moisture in the system actually breaks open and all the little dessicant material in there shoots throughout the A/C system and clogs up all the components within the system. And I'm talking the actual condensor up here, gets clogged up, all the little tubes in there. The lines can get clogged, and then the TXV right there can get clogged, and then of course the EVAP inside of the vehicle. ... There are certain models and certain years that are more prone to it than others...the Escape being one of them...

On the old systems at least though, they had a fixed-orifice tube system where the high pressure line that goes to the EVAP there would be the fixed orifice plus a screen, so that the actual debris would never get past it and clog up the EVAP also. So at least you wouldn't have to pull the dash out."

 

This is the best video I found. They say to replace the drier when you open the system.
I think its my TXV and I saw green fluid by the condenser. But the compressor turns on.

 

Really nice video. I love how the bottom (and middle) of the condenser is exposed to road debris behind the bumper and grille with nothing to stop it. Why not mount it a couple inches lower under the license plate, right out front and down low there to suck up all that good, clean, debris-free air? .

I want to graft in some mesh screen material, screen door stuff that would keep something as small as a bug out but let air flow unimpeded. On the list....you can see in that video how much the impact damage varies from place to place on the condenser.

These guys at Lawrence-Berkeley National Lab did some measuring and math, were using relatively fine screens compared to "window or screen doors" so the door screen material with larger "free hole area" should result in minimal flow impedance and help protect the condenser. You may also want to run some leak dye through the system...but once you pull it down if it holds vacuum you should be OK.

https://ateam.lbl.gov/hightech/fumeh..._Fume_Hood.pdf

While you're "in there" with the bumper and grille removed it would be the ideal time to do something like that.

 

Yea, my condenser is full of rocks and crap. I looked with the UV light and there is a good bit of glow around the seals to it. Only seal with some glow on it actually. I don't know if I'm pulling the whole bumper or just the grill yet. Will watch the guys who do it that way and see what the effort is vs taking the whole bumper off.

Not sure if the screen would make a difference even if it did impede airflow; it has to be better than all those rocks.

These are the parts needed if anyone else has to do it:

Direr: Seals: Condenser: Expansion: Control Valve: - Since there is a video on it and the system is drained.

I don't think you add any of that unobtanium motorcraft oil, just put some PAG46 on the o-rings.

Then you need the vac pump and no auto parts stores rent it out anymore.

 

While we're on the subject of A/C: I used mine yesterday (for the last couple of days too) and noticed some funky, musty smell. I turned the A/C off and blew through the system for about 5 minutes on FAN HIGH NONRECIRC and the smell went away. I know my cabin air filter is clean (and yes, you can put one in these cars even if you don't have one from the factory). But we know what causes it: it's bacterial growth on the A/C evaporator. There are lots of videos about how to kill it with Lysol, FrigiClean, and other products on YouTube. No matter what you do, it's just a band-aid, so far as I've seen. The smell will eventually come back without reapplication of the product(s).

The interesting thing: Ford Tech Makuloco was the only person I saw on YouTube who talks about the true cause of the dank, musty smell: it is the change in the film coating that the U.S. Government mandated the manufacturers use on the evap system. He talks about it in this video - near the end - and he also recommends turning off the A/C a mile or two before arriving at a destination to dry off the A/C evaporator, and he has another video about making sure the DRAIN is unclogged. Now you know why your car's A/C literally stinks.


"Now the reason why this is such an issue right now is that a couple of years ago the government cracked down on these chemical manufacturers and they wanted everything to be water based. So ever since then, there's been issues with rust penetrants not working as well, paints not adhering as well, chrome peeling off bumpers, stuff like that, and the other victim was the coil coating they used to put all over the face of the evaporator. And now it's such a poor coating on there that it really doesn't do much for you, so you've kind of got to help it along. There is some kind of coating on there, but you've really got to help it along so it prevents any kind of growth on there."

Wow, that's just incredible. The government wanted everything to be water based, so it requires manufacturers to build A/C systems that harbor bacteria. Anyone remember the Legionnaires' Disease outbreak in 1976? I do.

Moreover, to prevent automotive A/C evaporator manufacturers from using a small amount of film coating, the geniuses in our government instead have people spraying disinfectants and other chemicals into their A/C evaporators to cut down on the stank, by the tens of millions, using all the spray cans, hoses, etc., etc. you see in these videos. What good did it do?