My DD has compression at the edge of it's life and leaky valves. I could have replaced the engine but as a 17 year old car I thought I'd try something new. A 2009 FEH appeared which had been repo'd. The body looks ok besides some dings and dents. It only has about 80k on the clock. Foolishly I deposited the $3000... hey inflation is going to run this down anyways.
It had to be towed but I did get a code scan before purchase.
P1260/B1213.. only one key is registered and PATS acts like the car was stole.
P1A0A - The only scary code. It is poorly documented. So far I have pushed on the inertia switches and I can't read it out anymore. Unfortunately the vehicle still says "pull over soon".
U0131 - Another zinger. Is the P/S module dead. Is it just wiring? Maybe it was replaced and not programmed.
The next lesson learned was that forscan doesn't like my tried and true BT elm scanner. I had to purchase another so I haven't delved into the magic of the can bus fully since I must wait for the mail creatures to do their thing. New keys are ordered and I can go get them cut as they probably arrive first. Figure I should get the car to crank and see if I still have 300v in ye ol battery.
A further inspection has revealed red coolant in BOTH the mek system and the radiator. Will I have to drain and replace all the MEK coolant? Or are others compatible?
Really love this forum exists as the documentation from ford is terrible compared to honda/toyota. I only have the workshop manual for 08 and I assume I need to find one for the second gen. Has anyone seen it floating around for free?
Maybe this will help on the P1AOA Code. Sounds like you've got an auction vehicle there with maintenance and work that was done by people who didn't care much about what they were doing. Good luck!
FordTechMakuloco can tell you what coolant to use for the MECS system, he's got a video on it. The color of the coolant might not matter, as long as it's equivalent, but how do you know? You have unknown coolant in there, the factory stuff is orange GOLD. Zerex G05 meets the Ford Spec. Sounds like you'll have to change it to make sure.
First of all, you have to get the battery charged, get it running, get FORScan on it, and then it's going to be one thing at a time until it all goes away or you run out of money/patience.
Maybe this will help on the P1AOA Code. Sounds like you've got an auction vehicle there with maintenance and work that was done by people who didn't care much about what they were doing. Good luck!
FordTechMakuloco can tell you what coolant to use for the MECS system, he's got a video on it. The color of the coolant might not matter, as long as it's equivalent, but how do you know? You have unknown coolant in there, the factory stuff is orange. Sounds like you'll have to change it to make sure.
First of all, you have to get the battery charged, get it running, get FORScan on it, and then it's going to be one thing at a time until it all goes away or you run out of money/patience.
CORRECTION: The factory coolant in an 09 is yellow/gold, not orange.
Having now looked at the car way more I got rid of the battery code by putting in a fully charged 12v. To be replaced with a code for "battery performance" and warnings of possible dead cells because of the low low 189v soc. SO my main hurdle is charging right now. Waiting on parts to arrive and then have to figure out how to get power to where the car sits. I need to do some math but I think my solar power bank will charge for at least 5h. I have about 50ah of lithium with inverter I can leave in the car. Then I assume recharge and go again.
If it truly is a bad battery I can't really heave it out at 165lbs. My plan is to pull the battery trays and go to the wrecker to do the same for one of the few gen1s they have. Dump the cells with 0v and replace with the junkyard ones. My only worry is I can't really build a balanced pack without charging the cells and that would require more making/waiting. Are there any specs on these cells, did they use the same ones in gen1/gen2. With a drill and impact it shouldn't be too much time to disassemble.
Then when I see it drives and nothing else codes out like meks, vac pump, etc I can worry about changing all the fluids. The fun will really start and I can paper/plate and daily drive.
FORScan has a battery balancing command for the HVTB, you can try that. Alternatively, you can charge the HVTB and then discharge it for a few cycles. I believe SKeith has a thread about that procedure.
Having now looked at the car way more I got rid of the battery code by putting in a fully charged 12v. To be replaced with a code for "battery performance" and warnings of possible dead cells because of the low low 189v soc. SO my main hurdle is charging right now. Waiting on parts to arrive and then have to figure out how to get power to where the car sits. I need to do some math but I think my solar power bank will charge for at least 5h. I have about 50ah of lithium with inverter I can leave in the car. Then I assume recharge and go again.
If it truly is a bad battery I can't really heave it out at 165lbs. My plan is to pull the battery trays and go to the wrecker to do the same for one of the few gen1s they have. Dump the cells with 0v and replace with the junkyard ones. My only worry is I can't really build a balanced pack without charging the cells and that would require more making/waiting. Are there any specs on these cells, did they use the same ones in gen1/gen2. With a drill and impact it shouldn't be too much time to disassemble.
Then when I see it drives and nothing else codes out like meks, vac pump, etc I can worry about changing all the fluids. The fun will really start and I can paper/plate and daily drive.
Your plan is horrifying. PAY someone to help you get the pack on a bench. Get a cherry picker. SOMETHING besides that plan. I use a modified Hoyer Patient Lift that I picked up off craigslist for $100.
Why is it horrifying? I saw the battery disassembly video. The trays will just unplug and come out whether on a bench or in the car. Then each tray has to go on the bench to have cells replaced... I can't do that in the car.
Btw, power pack won't do it. The charger will draw 20A from the 12v after conversion so it won't last but 2 hrs. I'll have to plug it in.
Last edited by ShadyEscape; 05-06-2021 at 06:31 AM.
So the power steering did not work indeed. I had to replace the 80A fuse that nobody seems to sell. Ended up going with a slightly bigger 80 AMP with screw terminals but it did fit. If you're in a bind: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c.../lit3/pal280bp The previous owner had put a 50A correct fuse in there and it obviously wasn't enough.
An abs code popped up for the left sensor. I reseated the conector and cleaned the sensor. Code is gone. Also a code for the front blower motor which worked... a reseat and it cleared too.
The tires are dry rotted but new which is yet another expense. They did air up but will need replacement if I decide to keep it.
Tomorrow I'll see what the coolant issues are about. Hopefully it's not a head gasket as wrong coolant + some missing looks mighty fishy. Not getting any obvious HG is broken stuff however.
--------------
So it's tomorrow. I got half way through the compression test. The cylinders got 130s, both of them. Got the balance to run and it's still going. Tester has remained blue the whole time, maybe the startup smoke is just condensation.
Last edited by ShadyEscape; 05-12-2021 at 09:08 AM.
So the exhaust fume test is coming back good for what it's worth. Found a rather shocking development in the rear.
Plugs! One had some oil on it. No matter how much I pump it stays blue. A way to keep your engine running. Pull the brake booster and stuff it up to not have a vacuum leak. You think I need a new one?
Well, you've definitely got the wrong coolant in there. Looks like you might have PCV issues? WHY did he pull the vacuum brake boost? You're giving me a little nausea here. Keep calm and carry on.
Rear shock: Oh yeah, baby! That'll buff right out. Just put some WD-40 on it. Now you know why it feels like you're riding on the
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
05-01-2021, 10:58 AM
Just what have I gotten myself into?
Re: Just what have I gotten myself into?
Re: Just what have I gotten myself into?
