If you install a diode in the line to protect the power supply from the battery, you do not need to disconnect anything.

Install as you describe, but with the diode in the circuit.

When you need to charge, plug it in. No need to remove data cable, main cable or safety plug.

 

Keith,

Thank you! Yes. I have two diodes at the power supply side. I also have two fuses on the battery side which saved me today. After 4.5 hrs of charging, I wanted to measure the voltage before I started the car. However, I forgot to move the red cable multi-meter part from the left current input to the right side voltage input. I got zero voltage. I immediately realized my mistake but thanks for the design. Both fuses (250V 2A) blew out but saved my battery. The fuses blew before the multi-meter's fuse blew. This was an unplanned test of the fuses. As you can see, I am not familiar with this multi-meter which is a fancy one I brought home just for this project. I have a simple small one at home I am more familiar that do not need to change the cables between different measurements. I changed the fuses and the voltage was 347.5V after 4.5hr charging.

And as being showed so many times in this post, my car started. Yeah. Thank you so much. I don't know how many cars has this forum post saved. I let the engine run until it stop. The SoC started with 30% or so. The engine shut off when the SoC is about 41%. Then I drove couple of blocks when the SoC went as high as 50% (360V, I might recall wrong). Now after three weeks, My car is back.

Thank you again for answering my question above. Right now, it took me quite a lot of effort to put back that black metal cover on the right side. It needs to be pushed below the seat and bend on top of the plug. It was not easy. I finally found it was easier to tilt the chair about 45 degree and also insert in an angle from the door side. Now I can put the screw on that cover because I don't need to unplug it anymore.

I remember you told that there is a function in Forscan to rebalance the battery. I bought the Android smart phone Forscan with Bluetooth connection. I could not find that battery balance function. Is it only in the laptop version?

Thank you again. I am happy to have my car back now. When I am free, I will post some pictures for this project.

Best,

River

 

[QUOTE=econoline;271361]I ran the Forscan rebalance procedure yesterday just for fun. It started at 45% SoC, ran it up to 95%, then discharged back to 52%, with a mix of high and low idle. This seems like the same deep calibration that ran once uncommanded several years ago.
[/QUOT]


I read the thread again and found that this figure seems to be the Android ForScan Lite not the PC version. So I finally find the battery rebalance in the App in the service in my phone Forscan app.



Although the procedure warned that it would take 45 mins to 1 hr but it actually only take 10 minutes. I failed the first one because it ask to turn off the ignition I did but put the key back then it ask to run the engine and idle. I did not start the car and start the procedure which showed the first failure. Here is my snapshots:

 

I want to thanks @S Keith for generously sharing his wealth of knowledge. I got my car up and running after 2 years. I took pictures and video along the way, eventually I'll stitch them together and make a guide as well.


In the mean time feel free to DM me, I am selling my charger. I went with the LPC-150-350, allowing me to use one charger that plugs into a 120v outlet to charge my battery. One end is a classic wall outlet, and the other end is a male XR6 connector. I should have a spare female xr6 connector somewhere as well that I will ship with it. I'm asking $150.

 

Finally resolved my P0AA7-60 code and wrench light by removing the jumper cable. Cleared codes, reset the BCM and everything was fine. I'm going to try installing a new jumper cable made with shielded wiring with a ferrite choke

 

Very interesting. I have always run them from under the black shroud, out the gap on the left and along the posts (zip-tying it to the inside) here:




I've never seen a P0AA7, but I can see it happening if the leads are picking up interference. Good find!

 

I see what you did, we went in the opposite direction (green.) In retrospect, to make matters worse, we ran it between the fuse block and its plastic shroud, and then looped it back over the fuse block to the front corner near the rear passenger seat. Probably the worst way to have done it from an RFI standpoint.

 

Mine is like S Keith's but on the opposite side of the BCM. Small hole in the wall of the casing and it comes out in the same spot. My code is intermittent but usually on. Maybe I should try some chokes. Of all things; RFI.

Placed a ferite loop over both wires with the arrow pointing towards the battery, no change. Will try the arrow in the other direction but otherwise the interference is occurring inside the battery casing.

 

Today we installed a new charging cable...shielded and routed as per S Keith's photo and directions. NO wrench light, NO P0AA7 code.

S Keith: if I might offer a suggestion, please consider including the cable routing picture and directions in your original post. It will save some people significant time and frustration.

 

Done.