Great thread and makes me realize I need to build a charger and at least get the wires out of the battery pack before I put it in the car, this I will definitely do. Thx
This is not a reply to this post. It is a general THANK YOU to S. Keith. I had the same dead battery problem with my 2009 Ford Escape. Followed the advice here and it fired right up. Couldn't get any Ford dealers to use their charger. They all seemed to believe none existed. Perhaps they are just ignorant. Out of frustration I wound up on the forum. Paid out $60 bucks or so for charger and misc. items. Took the 4 hour charge route and it started. I put it in the miracle category after hearing the battery was bad from Ford. Did it about a month ago and have had zero trouble since. Again, thanks a million for sharing your knowledge with us novices.
You're welcome. I only wish I had the drive to put together a decent kit and market it... Sofa King Lazy.
I do recommend you obtain a PC copy of Forscan with a compatible cable. It has a battery rebalance feature where it pushes the battery to a higher state of charge to equalize it. I have no data to support it, but the practice is consistent with operations that restore capacity and balance.
I also want to say thanks to S Keith and only wish I would have found this last year, and recharged my 09 pack before putting this 07 pack in there. Now the dilemma is should I build another charger, recharge my 09 pack and sell it, or turn it in for the 150 deposit. I built the charger yesterday morning, started at 275VDC, and 4 hours later was at 325VDC, installed in car and it fired right up with no codes. Now I can ship this car and charger back to Colorado for my kid, knowing it is reliable.
PS, installing this 2 post lift has been the best thing I have ever done for the garage, I would highly recommend it.
i left mine sit too long and had to do the same;
did it in the vehicle - tough job lifting the sides (one at a time);
i did not know the voltage when a started nor when i ended (3 or 4 hours);
started up and no codes;
so that is an engine hoist that has 2 legs - correct?
i left mine sit too long and had to do the same;
did it in the vehicle - tough job lifting the sides (one at a time);
i did not know the voltage when a started nor when i ended (3 or 4 hours);
started up and no codes;
so that is an engine hoist that has 2 legs - correct?
Nice! I use a modifed Hoyer Patient lift and use the blue straps on the sides. I need to get a 3rd chain and use the 3 attach points.
I've modified it a little cutting it about 8" shorter and using a piece of angle to extend it. It's nice in that it's fairly light and easy to break down and take with me if I need to
What I really need is for people to stop letting their cars sit!
Of the last 5:
The first one needed a blend door actuator.
The second had inop A/C, but the owner got it fixed. This car was "gifted" to her, and she's out less than $1K.
The third was purchased at auction and had its cat cut out - sounded like a dragster when I started it up.
The fourth and fifth were actually just textbook recharges - everything worked. I needed that!
I do recommend you obtain a PC copy of Forscan with a compatible cable. It has a battery rebalance feature where it pushes the battery to a higher state of charge to equalize it. I have no data to support it, but the practice is consistent with operations that restore capacity and balance.
I ran the Forscan rebalance procedure yesterday just for fun. It started at 45% SoC, ran it up to 95%, then discharged back to 52%, with a mix of high and low idle. This seems like the same deep calibration that ran once uncommanded several years ago.
I ran the Forscan rebalance procedure yesterday just for fun. It started at 45% SoC, ran it up to 95%, then discharged back to 52%, with a mix of high and low idle. This seems like the same deep calibration that ran once uncommanded several years ago.
how do you run the balance feature, I try it on Forscan lite on my IPAD but it boots me out of the program and crashes it.
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