2009 FEH no power assist for braking
hi; been a long time; Had this brake problem going on for about a year. Have cleared codes and drove.. Only happens when i start it and move. Never during the time the Escape is moving.
Cannot clear now. Have not used forscan (dont know if i can with my current laptop). My Innova 5310 reads abs codes.
OK - No dtc codes
4 Codes:
C001-49
U3000-49
C0022-1D
c0022-49
Last 2 are Brake Booster Solenoid
Any help is much appreciated.
Cannot clear now. Have not used forscan (dont know if i can with my current laptop). My Innova 5310 reads abs codes.
OK - No dtc codes
4 Codes:
C001-49
U3000-49
C0022-1D
c0022-49
Last 2 are Brake Booster Solenoid
Any help is much appreciated.
removed the connector at the brake booster solenoid and sprayed with electronic cleaner.
NOW - c0001 is gone but have c0002 - 49 so instead of valve 1 i have valve 2
so c0002
c0048-11
u3000-49 not current
c0022-49
c1012-01 brake pedal feel simulator cut-off valve solenoid
more like a ground probleml but with c0022-49 remaining (seems like the booster needs to be replaced)
needs to remove the connector at the abs elec module and spray it out
NOW - c0001 is gone but have c0002 - 49 so instead of valve 1 i have valve 2
so c0002
c0048-11
u3000-49 not current
c0022-49
c1012-01 brake pedal feel simulator cut-off valve solenoid
more like a ground probleml but with c0022-49 remaining (seems like the booster needs to be replaced)
needs to remove the connector at the abs elec module and spray it out
after 3 codes disappeared and 3 new ones appeared - started considering the ground. Main ground off the battery was loose AND also lots of rust
and corrosion and also on another ground close to it. Worked 3 or 4 hours cleaning, but did not get down to the ground on the power-split device. i
wanted to but even though i could see it - hard to get to. Need to take the tire off and probably the wheel well - best practice would be to derust and
clean that too.
OK - only ONE code now; but when i drive then 4 more show up; those 4 can all be erased but the ONE cannot.
It is: C0048-11 Brake Booster travel sensor - says short to ground. Under the dash on the brake pedal. No experience with it - will research this evening.
Have only known the brake light switch (they have been a bi@@@ to work on - at least for the vehicles i have had).
and corrosion and also on another ground close to it. Worked 3 or 4 hours cleaning, but did not get down to the ground on the power-split device. i
wanted to but even though i could see it - hard to get to. Need to take the tire off and probably the wheel well - best practice would be to derust and
clean that too.
OK - only ONE code now; but when i drive then 4 more show up; those 4 can all be erased but the ONE cannot.
It is: C0048-11 Brake Booster travel sensor - says short to ground. Under the dash on the brake pedal. No experience with it - will research this evening.
Have only known the brake light switch (they have been a bi@@@ to work on - at least for the vehicles i have had).
Sounds like a lot of different things connected to the ABS module...have you had that connector off? reseating and/or using some contact cleaner on that might help confirm/rule out a ground issue at that module. That would screw up a lot of diagnostic signalling
hi - thanxs for the reply; that fault of the travel sensor was caused by me - thought it was the solenoid so i disconnected and sprayed out and
forgot to reconnect. reconnected and it is good.
did a hard reset of the entire suv and ended with 3 codes. 2 are listed as NOT current - only 1 is current.
brake booster solenoid and it is either open or short to ground.
took the connect off at the abs and checked pins 17 and 31 - should show 1 to 3 ohms. NO continuity at all.
so that confirms what the code reader shows.
SO, new brake booster (built in solenoid is NOT replacable) is needed. Programming is not needed according to Oreily tech support.
They are somewhat high priced but the only one found that gives a lifetime warranty.
I would like to do it without taking off the lines of the master cylinder (just moving it to the left - dont know it that is possible - do not see a youtube video
of the hybrid booster replacement). I have done one but many years ago and of course not a hybrid.
forgot to reconnect. reconnected and it is good.
did a hard reset of the entire suv and ended with 3 codes. 2 are listed as NOT current - only 1 is current.
brake booster solenoid and it is either open or short to ground.
took the connect off at the abs and checked pins 17 and 31 - should show 1 to 3 ohms. NO continuity at all.
so that confirms what the code reader shows.
SO, new brake booster (built in solenoid is NOT replacable) is needed. Programming is not needed according to Oreily tech support.
They are somewhat high priced but the only one found that gives a lifetime warranty.
I would like to do it without taking off the lines of the master cylinder (just moving it to the left - dont know it that is possible - do not see a youtube video
of the hybrid booster replacement). I have done one but many years ago and of course not a hybrid.
Thread
Topic Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jdmilo1
Ford Escape Hybrid
11
Mar 14, 2026 06:31 PM
Hippo the Hybrid
Ford Escape Hybrid
12
Nov 15, 2025 09:14 AM
ken1784
Honda Insight
1
Nov 21, 2008 01:23 PM




