Good afternoon. I have spend the past several days reading through this forum. There are seriously smart people who know a lot about the FEH and battery cooling issues on here! I realize there are lots of threads with similar issues, but many of them have bad links (becasue they are from 2008-2012). Rather than reviving an old thread I thought it would be better to start a new thread. If that was a bad move, please point me to a better thread to add my issue to.

VEHICLE: Vehicle info: 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid HEV / 4V 2.3L with 177,500 miles

ISSUE: Last weekend my daughter was driving her 2006 FEH and she got the SSN + Red triange. She was able to get to the side or the road, but it wouldn't start. She ended up getting towed back home. This happened almost exactly a year ago under almost the same conditions. It was a hot day (90+ degrees), she was stuck in traffic, and about 30 minutes into the drive. Hadn't happened again until the other day.

The next day she could get it started, but after about 10-20 minutes of idling in the driveway, the SSN appeared and it shut down, and it would not start. After it sat there for several hours, it would start, but the SSN and shut down would happen after 10-20 min. She has since driven it on short drives 10-20 minutes without the issue recurring. For additonal context, the cabin A/C works so/so, it doesn't really cool the cabin much but keeps it bearable. The Battery A/C seems to work much better, or at least the A/C lines under the driver's rear area are very cold with lots of condensation.

FORSCAN gave the following codes:

(OK) [18:42:21.456] Vehicle: Ford Escape/Mercury Mariner Hybrid HEV / ATKINSON 4V 2.3L 2006 ( 2006 MY ), VIN: 1FM*********06468
(OK) [18:42:22.142] Found module: TCM - Transmission Control Module
(WARN) [18:42:22.185] DTCs in TCM: P0562-FF, P0A0A-FF
(OK) [18:42:22.187] Found module: PCM - Powertrain Control Module
(WARN) [18:42:22.302] DTCs in PCM: P0685-FF, P1A10-FF, P1A13-FF, P2105-FF, U0101-FF, U0129-FF
(OK) [18:42:22.610] Found module: ABS - Antilock braking system
(WARN) [18:42:22.696] DTCs in ABS: C1524-A0, B1318-A0
(OK) [18:42:22.698] Found module: BCM - Battery Control Module
(WARN) [18:42:22.756] DTCs in BCM: P0AC0-20, P0A8D-20, P0A0A-20, P0A27-20, P0A7E-20, P0A81-20, P0A96-20
(OK) [18:42:22.776] Found module: IC - Instrument Cluster
(WARN) [18:42:22.817] DTCs in IC: B1318-20
(OK) [18:42:22.818] Found module: RCM - Restraint Control Module
(WARN) [18:42:23.270] DTCs in RCM: B1318
(OK) [18:42:23.340] Found module: GEM - Generic Electronic Module
(WARN) [18:42:23.399] DTCs in GEM: B1342-60, B2872-20, B106E-20

I also ran a couple of the FORSCAN self tests and got addtional codes:
(OK) [18:52:48.462] On Demand Self-Test has been started
(WARN) [18:53:08.844] Test completed, found DTCs: P0A81, P0A96, P0A81, P0A96

(OK) [18:54:41.946] On Demand Self-Test has been started
(WARN) [18:54:49.073] Test completed, found DTCs: B1314, C1769

(OK) [10:03:17.749] Key On Engine Off On Demand Self-Test has been started
(WARN) [10:03:31.391] Test completed, found DTCs: P2521, P2524

After reading a bunch on this forum I realize I need to provide more info in order for you guys to provide possible causes, I will go out and rerun FORSCAN to see if I can get more BCM info like DEL_MOD_V and BSOC. (I'm still learning what FORSCAN can do, and how to use it.)

There's so many codes I'm not sure where to start. I'm not sure which codes indicate the cause, which are additional symptoms, and which are unrelated (but still need to be taken care off). I need to keep the repair expense within reason, the FEH is only worth about $2,500 when its running.

TROUBLESHOOTING:
The battery filter is noticebly dirty, that's the first think I'll replace.
I pulled out the PCM relays and fuses. I didn't see any corrosion or any obvious signs of problems. Should I replace the PCM relays anyway?
Quick question, is ECU, PCM, and ECM the same thing on the 2006 FEH? I see these terms in different places, but can't find the difference between them.
I can see the coolant flowing in the MECS reservoir so I assume the MECS pump is okay. (Not sure where it is to listen to it running, still researching.)
While the ICE is running, I can't hear the battery cooling fans running. Based on the DTCs I think they are both shot.
I have a trickle charger on the 12v battery now. It read 11.99v, low but not terrible. If it dosen't hold a charge above 12.4, I''ll replace it.

Are any of these worth trying?
1. Drain the PCM capacitors to delete the PCM memory. Does that reset the PATS?
2. Hybrid battery rebalance via FORSCAN. I know I saw the steps of how to do that on this forum. I'm sure I can find them again. Seems like it will take an hour or so to do it a few times. Not sure if it will do anything.
3. Clear all codes and checking again.

After replacing the battery air filter, should this be the first thing I fix? Or is there something else to do first?
For DTCs P0A81 & P0A96, TSB 16-0118 says, "replace both high voltage traction battery (HVTB) cooling fans." It doesn't mention any other troubleshooting, just replace the HVTB cooling fans. Will failed cooling fans cause the SSN issue? I believe they will stop the FEH from going into hybrid mode (and it almost never goes into hybrid mode), but not sure if it will cause SSN. Seems pretty straight forward to replace the cooling fans. I just don't know if that will fix this issue (needs to be done, but I would like to fix the SSN issue first.). Cooling Fan replacement video:

You Tube

For DTCs P2521, P2524, the 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid 2006 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Pinpoint Tests - Escape Hybrid & Mariner Hybrid says,
KM20 - CHECK THE A/CFDS CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO POWER IN THE HARNESS
- PCM connector disconnected. - Key ON, engine OFF.
- Measure the voltage between: (+) PCM Connector, Harness Side A/CFDS - Pin B3 and (-) Ground
- Is the voltage less than 1 V? YES: INSTALL a new PCM. NO: REPAIR the short circuit to PWR.
Where is A/CFDS - Pin B3?
(I'll rerun this test to confirm the A/C controls were turned off. I think they were, but not 100% sure.)

I really don't care if the FEH operates in ICE or EV mode, I just need it to be reliable for my daughter.
I will continue Googling and reading other threads on this forum. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide. Links to applicable threads are appreciated.

 

Yesterday I ran the FEH for a little while and took it for a 10 minute drive with no issues. The battery was holding 12.67v after being charged. After the drive I put a thermometer in the Cabin A/C vent. I noticed the air temp dropped to 71 degrees F, then started rising and went to about 84 F. I also noticed that when the Cabin A/C air temp started to rise, the larger Battery A/C line got colder and was covered in condensation. 5 minutes later I got the SSN + Red Triangle. I never did hear the Battery cooling fans come on. When I did the BCM self test I got the P0A81 & P0A96 DTCs.

Here is the BCM data from FORSCAN. Let me know if there is additional info I can provide to help diagnosis the issue. Thanks again for the assistance.

 

58°C?????

Those are battery destroying temperatures. Recommend the vehicle never be driven above 37°C or damage will occur. The vehicle tries to maintain around 27-32°C when the cooling system is fully operational.

Evap temp of 34°C indicates it's not being cooled. Should be in the vicinity of 10°C when being cooled.

So-so A/C is either a failed compressor control valve, failing A/C system or low refrigerant. If it performs well at highway speeds, but so-so/poor at slower speeds, it's likely the compressor control valve.

You have the codes for BOTH fan failures. Replace fans.

From DTC tab, save the text file and copy/paste into your message. That file gives the codes, description and additional information.

 

S Keith, thanks for the info so far. I'm trying to find the cooling fans somewhere reasonable. Everyone seems to be out of stock.
Aren't these just squirrel cage fans? What fails on them? Seems like they could be repaired.

Here is the DTC tab text file:===TCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
Module: Transmission Control Module
===END TCM DTC None===

===PCM DTC P0685-FF===
Code: P0685 - ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit/Open
Module: Powertrain Control Module
===END PCM DTC P0685-FF===

===PCM DTC P1000-FF===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
Module: Powertrain Control Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.
===END PCM DTC P1000-FF===

===PCM DTC P1A10-FF===
Code: P1A10 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Disabled
Module: Powertrain Control Module
===END PCM DTC P1A10-FF===

===OBDII DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
Module: On Board Diagnostic II
===END OBDII DTC None===

===4X4M DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
Module: 4X4 Control Module
===END 4X4M DTC None===

===ABS DTC B1318-A0===
Code: B1318 - The battery voltage level is too low.
Status (-A0):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC
Module: Antilock braking system
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Battery Voltage Too Low
Battery Voltage Low
This DTC may have been set as a result of a discharged vehicle battery or a poor supply connection to the heater unit.
===END ABS DTC B1318-A0===

===ABS DTC C1524-A0===
Code: C1524 - Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Calibration Incomplete
Status (-A0):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC
Module: Antilock braking system
===END ABS DTC C1524-A0===

===BCM DTC P0A81-60===
Code: P0A81 - Hybrid Battery Pack Cooling Fan Control Circuit
Status (-60):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Battery Control Module
===END BCM DTC P0A81-60===

===BCM DTC P0A96-60===
Code: P0A96 - Hybrid Battery Pack Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit
Status (-60):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Battery Control Module
===END BCM DTC P0A96-60===

===BCM DTC P0A27-60===
Code: P0A27 - Battery Power Off Circuit
Status (-60):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Battery Control Module
===END BCM DTC P0A27-60===

===BCM DTC P0A7E-60===
Code: P0A7E - Hybrid Battery Pack Over Temperature
Status (-60):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Battery Control Module
===END BCM DTC P0A7E-60===

===BCM DTC P0A81-60===
Code: P0A81 - Hybrid Battery Pack Cooling Fan Control Circuit
Status (-60):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Battery Control Module
===END BCM DTC P0A81-60===

===BCM DTC P0A96-60===
Code: P0A96 - Hybrid Battery Pack Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit
Status (-60):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Battery Control Module
===END BCM DTC P0A96-60===

===EPS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
Module: Electronic-Controlled Power Steering
===END EPS DTC None===

===IC DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
Module: Instrument Cluster
===END IC DTC None===

===RCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
Module: Restraint Control Module
===END RCM DTC None===

===GEM DTC B1318-20===
Code: B1318 - The battery voltage level is too low.
Status (-20):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Battery Voltage Too Low
Battery Voltage Low
This DTC may have been set as a result of a discharged vehicle battery or a poor supply connection to the heater unit.

===END GEM DTC B1318-20===

===GEM DTC B1342-60===
Code: B1342 - MODULE DEFECTIVE

Status (-60):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
ECU internal fault
===END GEM DTC B1342-60===

===GEM DTC B106E-20===
Code: B106E - Solid State Driver Disabled Due To Short Circuit
Status (-20):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
Module: Generic Electronic Module
===END GEM DTC B106E-20===

 

You have overtemp, disabled and both cooling control circuit codes. ALL indications point to an overheated battery.

Repair is a pain:

https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...05/index3.html

Make sure you read it all the way through.

Do you have more time or money?

 

Thanks, I have more time than money. The FEH isn't worth a lot, so I don't want to put too much into, but I also don't want to have to spend $15K for a 10 y.o. used car with 100K on it (pretty much what you can get in Northern VA these days.) I just need to keep it running for another 2 years until my daughter graduates, then she can look at getting something else.

I'll read through the post you linked to and let you know if I have any questions.

 

If I can find replacement fans, I'm okay paying the $350-$400 for them. Finding them is the problem. I just spoke with the the local Ford dealer, they can't get the fans. I gave them part number 5M6Z-10C659-B, but he said that is obsolete and they can't get them. Fixing the broken fans may be the only option. Still googling though.

Should I get the A/C working better before I replace the fans? Or will replacing the fans be good enough to keep it running and avoid the overheat condition? I don't mind spend $400 on the fans, but I don't want to also spend $1,500 to get the A/C fixed. I'll have to do a bit more research on A/C repair, and see if there is a local shop that will do the evac and recharge for me (unless there is an inexpensive DIY system I can buy, more google coming). I've been meaning to buy an A/C manifold set for a while now. Sounds like it's about time.

 

Getting the fans running will at least allow you to circulate air in the battery. There is a connecting duct at the left rear side of the battery. If you remove that, the battery fans can at least circulate interior air if A/C is unable to provide battery cooling.

Removing the fan cover and confirming there are no unplugged connectors is probably a good first step.

The car will engage the compressor to cool the battery even if the interior A/C is off. In many cases, a marginally functioning A/C can be enough to keep the battery cool if the driver is willing to be uncomfortable.

Again, if A/C works well at highway speeds, it's likely the compressor control valve. If it seems weak at all times, it's likely low on R-134a. A low side fill hose with a gauge and a can of R-134a is probably the cheapest initial step.

If you have to replace the compressor control valve, the part is < $50, but it requires a full evacuation and recharge.

I can provide no assistance whatsoever on the fan repair. I've never done it, I just remember when that got posted and was able to find it...luckily...

Good luck!

 

S Keith, thank you. I'll keep looking to see if I can find the fans and replace those. Then I will get a manifold gauge set and see what the pressures look like, I'll add a can of R-134a if it's low, which it probably is. Then I will test drive to see if the A/C is better at highway speeds. I've watched the video on repaing the compressor control value, looks pretty simple. The evac and recharge are the pain there.

Thanks again. I'll you know how I do and if this fixes it.

 

I have two sets of manifold gauges, but I rarely use them. Low side fill hose with pressure gauge is what I use 95% of the time to top off A/C. Cheap and readily available.

Recommend you only drive in the early a.m. when temperature is at it s most mild. Monitor temp via Forscan while driving and shut it down at 40°C.