I have one or two of those low side fill hoses. I've used A/C Pro before to top off a system (not this vehicle), but never had good results. I have always been afraid I will add too much and cause problems.
I'll grab a can of R-134a and top off the FEH. Is it worth getting the R-134a with the leak dye in it, or will that do more harm than good?

 

I don't care for those A/C Pro kits. A simple hose and pure R-134a is all I ever use. Important for me primarily because most of what I fill are Gen2 Prii with electric compressors, and you can't add anything with oil or an additive in it. When you read the fine print near the bottom of those A/C Pro cans, it says not for use with hybrid vehicles with electric compressors... lots of Gen2 Prius owners need a full evac and recharge afterwards.

 

S Keith, quick question, if I drive to a mechanic to evac the A/C, can I drive the FEH home to do the repair since the A/C will no longer provide any cooling to the battery. Maybe if the mechanic is really close and the outside temp is low I could make it home? Or is that a bad idea?

In a non-hybrid, you just make sure the A/C is turned off and it's okay to drive with an evac'd system. That doesn't really hold for a hybrid where the PCM can command A/C cooling for the hybrid battery.

If a short dirve with an evac'd A/C system is okay, should the compressor power be disconnected (if that's even possible)?

 

Have you confirmed it's likely the compressor control valve?

 

Battery cooling fans can be found on ebay for reasonable prices. Most of them are probably pulled from totaled vehicles and not refurbished, but I bought one there about 6 months ago and it's still working fine.

 

Sorry, was at work all day yesterday.
No I haven't yet, I don't think it will make it for a trip on the highway. It's been so hot here.
I will try to test the A/C cabin air temp at low (1100) and high (2500) RPM while parked to simulate idle and high speed driving. Maybe I'll see a difference in air temp and can determine if the compressor control valve is failing.

 

It's the combined increased flow over the condenser and the higher rpm pumping that makes the difference. The high rpm stationary test is unlikely to be diagnostically conclusive.

 

Understood, I might have to wait until I change the cooling fans to feel confident about taking it on the highway. I ordered some used ones from ebay for $150, hopefully they work. They should be here in a couple days. Once installed, I'll take it on a ride and see I can diagnosis the A/C issues.

 

Good plan.

 

Since I'm getting used fans, I'll probably have to replace the foam that covers the connectors. Is there a specific type of foam needed? I Googled "automotive adhesive foam" and there's plenty to choose from. Just want to make sure there isn't anything speacial about this foam.
I'll try to be careful when I remove the old foam hoping I can reuse it, but since its 17 y.o. I figure it will fall a part.