Here's more detailed information compared with that which I gave in Post #34 above:

Distance travelled since last fillup = 798 km (~499 mi)
ScanGaugeII said fuel used = 52.6 L (~13.9 galUS)
ScanGaugeII said fuel left = 12.4 L (~3.3 galUS)
ScanGaugeII said remaining cruising range = 186 km (~116 mi)

The fuel gauge was reading ~1 div below Empty. The Repair Manual says that when the fuel warning light comes on there's actually 9.8 L (~2.6 galUS) left in the tank. This is consistent with what other posters to this Newsgroup have found. The tank's nominal capacity is 65 L (~17.2 galUS). When I filled up, the gas pump said that I had added 15.4 galUS (~58.4 L). This means that there was ~1.8 galUS (~6.6 L) of fuel left. Now, different gas pumps shut off differently, and this probably accounts for the discrepancy between the ScanGaugeII calculations and the gas pump readings. If I average the two sets of readings, I conclude that there was likely ~2.5 galUS (~9.6L) of fuel left when I filled up. This would have given me a cruising range (at the 6.6 L/100 km FE average of my trip from Waterloo to Lafayette) of ~145 km (~91 mi). So, my tank wasn't nearly empty, even though the fuel gauge was well below Empty.

Stan

 

Good info Stan. I guestimated the reserve to be 2.5 gallons when the gas gauge reads empty from my experience. I often drive 30 to 60 miles past Empty, yet have never put more than 16 gallons in (the one time I put 16 gallons in, I went 80 miles past empty )

 

I haven't gotten to my first change yet (only at 2200 miles). When its cold, I will definitely use the lighter oil, when it's warm, I don't know. I'll probably stick with the 0W20 since that's what is in it. In the high heat of the summer, I may go to the 5W20.

Not much of an answer, huh? Sorry...

 

That was almost an answer LOL. I hear what you are saying though.

I've never used synthetic on any of my vehicles and am considering it for the TCH and my CRV. I have a 98 civic with 105000 miles on it and haven't had a single problem.

 

I just returned from my first oil change at the dealership. I checked many of the local chains first, and they didn't have the 0W-20 in stock. Toyota said they would charge 59.99 for the service, which I thought was high, but they said they check local competition to do their pricing. Anyhow, for this period when the oil is hard to find, and because the dealer is close by, I said okay. When I dropped off the car, he repeated the 59.99 price, but when I was called to pick up the car, I was informed that the price had changed to $78 because they had to use the full synthetic 0W-20 - even though we had discussed the specific oil before I brought the car in. They were trying to charge over $11 per quart for the oil!! Naturally, I informed this person that there was no way I was paying more than 59.99, at which point he went back to a manager who authorized a $20 "discount". Needless to say, if they don't change their prices, I won't be doing any more oil changes there. I know the cost of living in this area is high, but JEEEEZ.

 

Drew,

Considering that people in here have seen the per quart price between $4.55 and $6.00, you ought to tell those jerkweeds what they can do with that spare dipstick in the corner!!

 

$78 BUCKS!!! WOW, my dealers charges $44.99

 

I think mine charges $20 for a dino change and about $45 for the synthetic.

The last two oil chnages I have done were synthetic, and so far I am happy with the mileage gains. I plan to keep the 0-20 in it year round and change the oil/filter every 4500 miles or so.

 

I agree - I've had several mechanics tell me that once you switch and run an engine on synthetic you should avoid switching back. In general, you should choose the oil type and stick with it - life of the car, period.

 

I got hit by that too. Out of town dealer (didn't want to wait until I was back home) wanted $78 (0w20 for second change). Local dealer was about $50 for the first change (5w20 for the first one)