I tried some of those and they were quite inadequate in the dome light. Too dim and way too narrow.

 

I haven't replaced the glove box light but I replaced the gear selector one. I seem to remember pulling it straight out, that it was tough to do so and that I may have even resorted to using pliers.

 

So is your digital HID "solution" halogen or LED?

How much electrical experience is needed to do this, I recall you saying you didn't have to run them directly to the battery or do any major modifications (in a different thread)?

 

And by the way, did you ever do your turn signals (front and/or rear)?

 

HIDs are neither halogen or LED. They are a completely different type of bulb headlight applications. See the wiki for additional information.

A HID setup requires a ballast (think florescence bulbs). There are two types of ballasts -- digital and non-digital. A digital ballast requires less power (watts, amps) to start the bulb. A non-digital ballast requires much more.

Because digital ballast require less power, you are able to use the factory (stock) wiring as the power source saving you the trouble of running a new wire. That said, running a new power wire and using the stock wiring as a "trip wire" is the better method as you eliminate the chance of causing damage to the stock wiring resulting in a potentially large repair bill.

If you wish you run a new wire to the "battery" you can wire it to the "remote battery terminal" in the fuse box under the hood. The line running to the battery is hefty enough to handle the power draw.

This does not require very much skill, however it requires the proper kit and wiring harness.

As I mentioned, I am going to create a tutorial thread completely documenting my installation, where I mounted the wires, what kit, where I ran the new wire and so on. I have a very clean (visibly) install.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Can you share how much your digital ballasts and any other components cost you?

Thanks for your help guys!

 

Mine was 225 USD for the HID kit. If you order from Mobile HID make sure you get the digital kit and have them include (free of charge) a modified harness if you wish to use the stock wiring. The rest of the supplies consisted of metal pipe support straps (the kind you would use to support sewer and other plumbing in your basement) which I had laying around and probably cost less than 5 USD at the hardware store for a large roll. Other than that, it was zip ties (which they provide some), a drill, 1/2 in drill bit, socket set, screwdriver, and electrical tape.

 

My set was $160, plus another $20 for the parts needed to make a direct plug-n-play harness. It came with the two Digital Ballasts, a set of 5000k bulbs and a set of 6000k bulbs, as well as wire ties. I didn't need any mounting hardware, as I used existing bolts to attach the ballasts to the frame rails.

 

So do the cold cathode tubes for the trunk draw less power than the reg bulb does or about the same? I really like the clean see-able look with that tube..

 

I believe it draws the same power. I have them in mine as well with power inverter and fuse for safety measures incase there is a different power draw. See my cardomain for more images.