Rear Mud Guards: Do rear tires need to be removed when installing??
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 38
Rear Mud Guards: Do rear tires need to be removed when installing??
Doesn't seem like there is much clearance with rear tires in place. Do I need to have dealer install the mud guards I have purchased (sounds like I can do the front OK as there is no drilling needed). Thanks,
Fred
Fred
Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 29
From: Staunton, VA
Re: Rear Mud Guards: Do rear tires need to be removed when installing??
I did not remove mine. I used a Skewdriver.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=306-208
Currency-to-hydrocarbons
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 343
From: Minneapolis, MN
Re: Rear Mud Guards: Do rear tires need to be removed when installing??
I just installed mine this weekend (Genuine Toyota parts)
The fronts are a piece of cake. 10mm socket and ratchet, #2 Phillips screwdriver. Turn the wheels to give you more room.
The rears - While the directions are good - they tell you to drill a pair of 1/4" holes once you mark the correct spots. You'll be pushing on a couple of nut-clips over the plastic rear bumper surround (comes all the way to the wheel well). I used a 1/8" bit instead. This gives the sheetmetal screws (supplied) something else to "bite" into besides the metal clip. One of the screws will go in with just a regular #2 phillips screwdriver. The other (closer to the bottom and further in toward the center of the car) is pretty tight. I used a Phillips screw driver bit (like you would chuck in a drill) and a 1/4" wrench to turn it..
I have to say that drilling the holes can be a little dicey unless you realize that you can twist the lip of the wheel well to an angle that makes it easier to drill.
If you really are worried about twisting the rubber a little (it goes right back) - you may need to invent a different way of doing it - or - just remove the rear wheels to give you lots of clearance.
The entire job start to finish took me maybe 30 minutes front and rear..
The fronts are a piece of cake. 10mm socket and ratchet, #2 Phillips screwdriver. Turn the wheels to give you more room.
The rears - While the directions are good - they tell you to drill a pair of 1/4" holes once you mark the correct spots. You'll be pushing on a couple of nut-clips over the plastic rear bumper surround (comes all the way to the wheel well). I used a 1/8" bit instead. This gives the sheetmetal screws (supplied) something else to "bite" into besides the metal clip. One of the screws will go in with just a regular #2 phillips screwdriver. The other (closer to the bottom and further in toward the center of the car) is pretty tight. I used a Phillips screw driver bit (like you would chuck in a drill) and a 1/4" wrench to turn it..
I have to say that drilling the holes can be a little dicey unless you realize that you can twist the lip of the wheel well to an angle that makes it easier to drill.
If you really are worried about twisting the rubber a little (it goes right back) - you may need to invent a different way of doing it - or - just remove the rear wheels to give you lots of clearance.
The entire job start to finish took me maybe 30 minutes front and rear..
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