Changing brake pads?
#12
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Ronald,
I have used regular Wagner ceramic pads and the Thermoquiet ceramic pads. Not much difference between the two to be honest about it but the Thermoquiet will usually be a little smoother in braking response.
Neither one will warp a rotor unless you are riding the brakes down a long hill (in a non hybrid car), doing brake fade testing with multiple 60-0 braking runs, are racing at Road Atlanta or you let your left foot ride the brake pedal. More than likely someone did not remove the slide pins, clean them up and re-grease as noted above. This will let the pads wear unevenly and let one side "stick" to the rotor and by heating one side, warp it.
That is not the pads fault but the installers fault. It looks simple in the photo's that I posted but I have been putting brakes on cars since the early 70's. What takes a glance or a few minutes of quick inspection for me can often be overlooked and cause problems for someone not familar with them. I also have vacuum bleeders, pullers and a load of other tools that I can use if required. If needed, I can also use the Modis the cycle the ABS actuator to bleed that subsystem as well.
I'm not a mechanic anymore but I still have a fairly nice box at home to work out of as I keep up the extended families cars for them:
Snap-on_Box.jpg
I have used regular Wagner ceramic pads and the Thermoquiet ceramic pads. Not much difference between the two to be honest about it but the Thermoquiet will usually be a little smoother in braking response.
Neither one will warp a rotor unless you are riding the brakes down a long hill (in a non hybrid car), doing brake fade testing with multiple 60-0 braking runs, are racing at Road Atlanta or you let your left foot ride the brake pedal. More than likely someone did not remove the slide pins, clean them up and re-grease as noted above. This will let the pads wear unevenly and let one side "stick" to the rotor and by heating one side, warp it.
That is not the pads fault but the installers fault. It looks simple in the photo's that I posted but I have been putting brakes on cars since the early 70's. What takes a glance or a few minutes of quick inspection for me can often be overlooked and cause problems for someone not familar with them. I also have vacuum bleeders, pullers and a load of other tools that I can use if required. If needed, I can also use the Modis the cycle the ABS actuator to bleed that subsystem as well.
I'm not a mechanic anymore but I still have a fairly nice box at home to work out of as I keep up the extended families cars for them:
Snap-on_Box.jpg
Last edited by GeorgiaHybrid; 09-02-2010 at 05:27 PM.
#13
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Thanks ewew 5087 and GeorgiaHybrid. I will be picking up some Thermoquiet pads for the front and rear of my TCH tomorrow. Saved $40 through Advance Auto Parts and think I may be able to get a $30 Wagner rebate. For the price I figured I would go ahead and buy for both axles even if I don't need them right now.
GeorgiaHybrid, I have been a backyard mechanic for almost 35 yrs and have a decent tool box, but can't rival yours or your experience. I do as much as I can on my vehicles, but they are trying to engineer the little guy out of the repair business. I figured you were a former mechanic, you were very helpful. Ewew 5087, thanks for the files. That's the way I remember rebuilding calipers, etc., it has been a few years since I rebuilt them though. Seems easier to buy rebuilt, quicker anyway.
I will get my hands dirty this weekend and start getting my vehicles ready for winter. Winter, an ugly word anymore. I will keep my computer close by for reference if needed.
Thanks again everyone.
GeorgiaHybrid, I have been a backyard mechanic for almost 35 yrs and have a decent tool box, but can't rival yours or your experience. I do as much as I can on my vehicles, but they are trying to engineer the little guy out of the repair business. I figured you were a former mechanic, you were very helpful. Ewew 5087, thanks for the files. That's the way I remember rebuilding calipers, etc., it has been a few years since I rebuilt them though. Seems easier to buy rebuilt, quicker anyway.
I will get my hands dirty this weekend and start getting my vehicles ready for winter. Winter, an ugly word anymore. I will keep my computer close by for reference if needed.
Thanks again everyone.
#14
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Ronald,
Another thing that will help you a LOT is a subscription to AllData DIY. It would cost $26.95 for one year or $44.95 for a 5 year subscription for the first car (cheaper after that). It basically gives you an online manual, all of the TSB's on a car, labor times, parts cost and detailed step by step instructions for almost anything on a car from the body to the engine, hybrid system and even the interior. If a person is familar with working on a car (like you are) it will be a big help. For someone just starting out and learning to work on their car, it can get them in over their head in a hurry....
If you plan on doing anything major on your TCH or any other car in your stable, it is well worth the time and money. One timing belt replacement, water pump, instrument cluster and center stack pull or similar will pay back the cost of the service.
Another thing that will help you a LOT is a subscription to AllData DIY. It would cost $26.95 for one year or $44.95 for a 5 year subscription for the first car (cheaper after that). It basically gives you an online manual, all of the TSB's on a car, labor times, parts cost and detailed step by step instructions for almost anything on a car from the body to the engine, hybrid system and even the interior. If a person is familar with working on a car (like you are) it will be a big help. For someone just starting out and learning to work on their car, it can get them in over their head in a hurry....
If you plan on doing anything major on your TCH or any other car in your stable, it is well worth the time and money. One timing belt replacement, water pump, instrument cluster and center stack pull or similar will pay back the cost of the service.
#15
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Thanks for the info, it would pay for itself quickly. I can do most of the basics, it is when I have something I have not worked on such as the TCH, I get worried about doing something wrong. It is much more advanced that my '97 Dakota. I don't mind learning something new, it is just making sure what I learn is correct. Thanks again for the help.
Happy Anniversary! Have a great Labor Day weekend!
Happy Anniversary! Have a great Labor Day weekend!
#16
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Well a pleasant surprise. I have well over .300 of rear brake pad left with 57,000 miles. Just looking at things with the caliper installed was very deceiving. Torqued the calipers back on. Will rotate my tires from one side to the other while they are off.
GeorgiaHybrid, sorry you went to the trouble of taking yours apart, hopefully this will help others so it was not in vain.
I am going to keep the pads I bought for future use, I was able to save $70 dollars on them, so it cost me about $55 for both axles. Not a bad deal.
Thanks again for the help everyone..
GeorgiaHybrid, sorry you went to the trouble of taking yours apart, hopefully this will help others so it was not in vain.
I am going to keep the pads I bought for future use, I was able to save $70 dollars on them, so it cost me about $55 for both axles. Not a bad deal.
Thanks again for the help everyone..
#18
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I was trying to gauge it by looking at the spacing between the caliper and the rotor. Apparently that won't work. We are pretty easy on cars, but by past vehicles 50-60000 miles was about when I changed the brakes. Yes it is amazing how well the brake pads are holding up.
Thanks again for the great post.
Thanks again for the great post.
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