Hi! I have a 2007 hybrid civic, with 210 000 km in Canada. I had an IMA code for a while, but didn't care cause I wasn't using the car for near 2 years. But now I need to put it back on the road. When I was using the car, I usually grid charge it and it was working well, but not this time, the code was P0a7f. So I have bought a refebrush battery pack from a battery shop. In the beginning, everything was working great, autostop was working gaz millage was good. I when hunting and when I came back 2 weeks later, IMA light was on. I try to grid charge it, didn't work.
This morning, I when to a repair shop, pull the code and got P1446.
We check all the voltage of the battery pack as the manual was saying and everything was ok.
We try to change all the componement in the IMA enclosure for another one, (BCM, Inverter, AC drive, battery pack, wire to the plug in the rear seat, and got the same code again.

The inverter from the shop that we try was reading on the obd2 reader for the parameter: "Insulation resistance of high Voltage circuit": 400kohm. The guy knows that value on that module and said that it should be near 900kohm. So he thinks the issue came from the front of the car, or the wire between.

So we give up for today.

Do any one have a clue or some test idea?

Thank you.

 

What did the 11 tap voltages read?

 

Wicht terminal?

 

BCM Module Connector B (14P)

 

Ok, I will check that when I got home.
Just to be sure, item #B11 on the plug (vhb6) to where? VHB12?

On the scanner, what value are we suppose to read on : Insulation resistance of high voltage circuit!?

 

I don't know the answer, but 400kΩ vs. 900kΩ is noise and not an indication of a HV isolation fault.

You have a P0A7F and P1446. Neither are indications of a high voltage isolation fault. Both are indications of IMA battery failure. Considering your year of vehicle has the 2nd worst hybrid battery every unleashed on the public, we should stick with the high probability solutions before chasing the guesses.

Unless your "battery shop" is a high volume reliable battery builder with dedicated expertise, they probably don't know what they're doing and sold you a bad battery.

What grid charger do you have?

 

Maxxvolt

I had P0A7F before changing the pack.
Batterie shop tell me they test each individual cell and a computer analyse an give wicht stick to use in a new pack.

Sorry l, I edited last post, voltage between b11 and where?

When I was waiting to get an appointment to go scan de car, I’ve grid charged de pack, and pull it out of the car and took the voltage each morning.
day one total180v min15,96 max17,13
1 week total164v min13,73 max 15,87
2 week total154 min12,38 max15,65
49 day total127 min11,67 max14,73

is the normal?

 

Battery shop will tell you that to convince you to buy a battery.

Does the maxxvolt power the fan?

You shouldn't need to, nor should you grid charge a new battery unless the builder recommends it.

Those values are horrific. Was that your old battery or the new?

 

Yes Maxxvolt power the fan. for safety, I unplug the bcm while balancing to not create a short with the fans cause it put straigh voltage in the fan wire.

These value are for the new batterie. I have balanced the packt then let it rest on my shop counter for 1.5 months.

So B11 to B12 got it. Will check it tonight.

I ask for the « insulation high voltage » value cause we try the dc-dc converter of the guy, and he sais that he put some new diode in it, and obd reader should read 900, so he diagnostic an communication problem some where in a wire instead of a bad batterie… I’m not convinced about that.

 

So, every time you grid charge, do you do all of the following in order?:

remove the back seat
remove the IPU cover
unplug the BCM
install the IPU cover
grid charge
remove the IPU cover
plug in the BCM
install the IPU cover
install the back seat