I recently had my oil changed at a nearby Walmart. Used the Mobil 0w20 and had the tires rotated....total cost was $46. Took them a bit of time to get the bottom plate off.

DKeane

 

[QUOTE=masgian
Procedure is kind of weird, under the car there is some kind of pannel, not a small one... that has to be unscrewed befere getting to the filter and oil exhaust... Looks pretty simple afterall but you need to get under the car... I dont have that kind of thing at home [/QUOTE]

I use 2x12s with one being about 3.5 feet and another nailed on top about 18" long. Use one under each front wheel. I can get under it to do the oil change. kevin

 

If you are really concerned about your OCI (oil change interval) get a used oil analysis performed. This is common practice is a lot of industries (heavy machinery, air compressors, all motorsports (air, land, sea)). By performing a UOA you will be able to see how your specific oil is holding up under YOUR driving conditions. All oils will behave differently, and you will get better life out of synthetics. One thing you have to think about with the HCH's is that they are not putting anywhere near as much stress on the oil that you would on a gas only powered vehicle. The engine is under much less of a constant load and my wife's rarely sees in excess of 3k rpm. This helps a lot in extending your oil change intervals. Personally we'll be following the recommended intervals, (after a change at 3k just for piece of mind, I don't care what anyone says...there will be some level of particulates in the oil from the break in process).

FYI,
That bottom panel is being added to a lot of cars now. It is put there to aid in aerodynamics. It might not make much sense, but those under body covers do wonders to clean up airflow under most cars. My STi has one as well.

 

Keep in mind that it's best to change oil when the car is absolutely level. Otherwise you risk leaving some old oil in the pan.

 

I changed mine a couple of weeks ago. Thankfully, the plug is at the back of the pan, so if you elevate the front of the car, it should actually aid in draining the oil. Make sure the oil's at operating temperature as well.

I did take pics of the oil change, so if anyone's interested, I can post them.

 

i'd be interested in seeing the pix.

 

The motivation I needed I'll get them ready and post over the weekend.

 

Me too! I always do my own maintenance... seeing what I'm in for would be helpful! Thanks.

 

Masgian,

I had my first oil change on Wednesday, at 8810. I was down to 5 %. They charged me about 41 and some change at Metro Honda in Montclair. I was going to go to the Diamond Bar location, but since I already have a record at Montclair, I figured to go there. Plus, they have a wireless internet connection I can use to surf the internet on my laptop while I'm waiting, so I went. Kinda steep indeed. Next oil change, I'm either getting it done at some mom and pops place, and bring my own oil, or do it myself.

Anyone who has done it know where to get the crusher washers ????

 

You can get them at a Honda dealer (they generally retail for .20 - .25 each). Or, you can get them from the various online stores, like www.HandAaccessories.com , for a bit less (as I write this, I see HandA is listing for .20 However, they've got the oil filters for 4.94/ea - I paid the $6.58 for mine at a local dealer recently).

Honda instructs you to be sure and use a new crush washer for each oil change. However, I'll be honest - while I'll adhere to that, when I examined the old washer after removing it, it didn't look too 'crushed' to me, at all.

I'm betting it's basically there to guard against people who overtorque the drain bolt - because torquing to 29ft/lbs, per the owner's manual, isn't going to 'crush' that thing at all, IMO (and, yes, I do own a torque wrench )