From a previous post:
The pack is made by Hedman, it can be ordered/or is stocked at some auto parts stores/muffler shops, I went the "at my leisure" route and ordered it on-line from Summit Racing ($40 to the door).

HED-25005
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...t=egnsearch.asp

In order to install it you will either have to be able to make/bend an exhaust or go to a muffler shop and pay them. Should cost less than $100 total (inc pack) but local shops charge what they want so it could be more. My total was $90 (inc pack) because I know/do a lot of business with this shop.
Any shop "should" be able to take off your stock system and make the new one follow the same route in a couple hours. If for some reason you go to one that cannot then consider another because it is not a difficult job by any means.
Clif
What you do is cut your stock pipe off the cat mount point and weld your new one to the old piecs, another route is to preserve the stocak assy and make a new cat mount.
Clif

 

I think AZ hit it on the nose with noise, the cost cannot be higher because you actually use less componets. The noise is 3-4 times the stock setup and 9-10 people who buy a civic would find it unaccecpatbe from the factory. It is in no way loud, it is louder inside than outside as it drives off but no good for most. Not sure why they don't but the same question can be asked of every car/motorcycle made, if it couldn't be improved there wouldn't be such a huge market for it. There are a lot of companies who sell looks/noise but just as many (if not more) who sell exhausts, etc they perform better than factory.
Clif

 

Not sure on the exact gains (wished I had pre/post dynos) but there is definetly a large improvement. If you missed it I have gained 7mph on a uphill climb, not sure what that equates to but if I could floor it and lose 7mph and now I can climb it without speed loss (not even floored) there has to be a gain.

On a seperate (but the same) note I just returned from a freeway 170 mile RT at speed not below 60 and not above 80 (drove 75 most of the time) and got 55.2mpg. With pax and by no means flat terrain, not to bad IMO.
I want to run side by side with another in my area to confirm the gains but I know it has more power.
Clif

 

As for the exhaust, why not go to a 2 1/2"? This is pretty standard amongst naturally aspirated four cylinder engines in the tuning world. For the intake, the larger the surface area of your filter, the more air you will suck, and the more power you will gain. (However, there comes a point when you can run too lean--don't know if the HCH runs lean or rich by default--and this can harm the engine, so be wary.) There is a flat-style K&N we use as a DIY intake (known as the Hot Air Intake mod) on the Cooper S. The filter is fairly cheap and really big, but it is shaped nicely so that it fits in narrow areas (K&N RU 1520). Repeated dyno tests have shown that this intake outperforms so-called fancy performance intakes...it cost 1/6 the price and is available at your local Pep Boys. However, I don't have a HCH or access to one, so I don't know if it will fit. Moreover, if you can route the intake to a cooler area in the engine bay, and/or find a direct or semi-direct avenue for outside air to hit it, and/or shield it from engine heat without blcoking air flow, you will increase your power that much more.

FYI - I have some questions/ideas about increasing power in the HCH, not limited to breathing, and I don't want to hijack this thread, so I am going to start a separate thread on that subject (just in case anyone wants to chime in with thoughts or advice).

 

Been waiting/ck'ing daily for the new thread......
Clif

 

Me too... which reminds me... i was checking up on drivign techniques for the '06 and saw a suggestion that said to pump the car into the desire speed, and then let go off the gas just enough so that it won't go to charge but not enough for it to drop below the 100's on the IG. Isn't this the same as just putting it in neutral while coasting or is there some kind of benefit of letting a trickle of gas go through when really it's not pushing the engine but simply keeping the car from doing regen braking?

 

The difference is that in that mode there's not even a trickle of gas flowing, fuel flow is completely shut off, and the valves are sealed to eliminate aspiration pumping losses.

 

so it's better to coast on neutral then?

 

No, you use gas coasting in neutral (unless you turn the key off too). You don't use gas in D in this glide mode.

 

Apparently not. When you keep the engine on and shift to neutral the engine is still running and consuming a little gas. When you let it coast as described, the engine shuts off its valves and continues to rotate without consuming any gas.