Lugee,
Any chance you could share the source? A less expensive source would be music to one's ears if faced with a replacement.
Thanks.

 

Hi all. I just bought a used 2003 HCH and am in the process or rebalancing the IMA cells. This is actually pretty easy to do with the right charger/conditioner. I also found some good sources on procedures to use and am also very techie myself so I can fill in any "blanks" easily. Anyone have some experiences at rebalancing they care to share?

I was also wondering if Lugee ever told anyone who his pack replacement source was? Just in case I need one.

 

Let me ask my friend where he got the replacement. You should be able to get it at any auto salvage yard.

I have a lot of knowledge about cars and have tools, if anyone has money and time maybe we can all get together and do a tutorial.

 

Thanks but I was hoping for a new pack like Honda would sell but for a lot less than $2600. LOL I know that the salvage yards around me want $500 for old packs. And I found a guy in NYC who will sell individual used subpacks for $50 ea + shipping. He claims he tests each one for proper function.

Today I started the disassembly of my pack. All went well and according to plan until the testing part came along: As I put each subpack to the load test to find the weak cells it turns out that all of them are about equally in ok shape. I am coming to suspect that I was told wrong and there is nothing wrong with my battery pack after all.

This is what I found so far about each subpack: The starting voltage was 8.0 - 8.1 volts. Under a 10 amp load it dropped to 7.2 and held pretty steady for a count of 15. Then I bumped it up to 30 amps and watched the volts drop to 6.5 in a few seconds. Then the volts recovered quickly to 7.9 when I stopped the testing. No over heating or smoke (sorry folks, LOL) After all this, the subpacks were holding steady at 7.9 volts. None dropped faster or more than the others (dropping like a stone is what I expected to see if any were bad.) So that is what makes me think all are in good shape at present.

Does anyone here know exactly what code P1449 means? I was told it had to do with the IMA battery but that is all I got. I need to know exactly what Honda says it means so I can figure out what is going on and not waste a bunch more effort on things that don't need to be taken apart. LOL. Not that I mind much, this is what I do for fun these days. ;-) I will also be going to the local Honda dealer to ask q's there on Monday. However, I don't expect much in the way of good answers. In the past I have found that dealers are more into taking my money on easy-work services than providing decent free answers. Maybe I can at least get a cup of tea, huh? LOL!

 

Well Mike I hope someone can tell you what that code means. If not try clean mpg.com. Hal

 

The service manual lists 3 things for P1449 on the '03 model:

Battery Module Overheating
Battery Cell Overheating
Battery Module Deterioration

Their "fix" is to replace the IMA battery. They aren't as adventurous as you are.

Maybe make sure your battery cooling fan is working correctly.
You might be able to check with the guy in NY; maybe you could run your numbers by him & see what his opinion is.

 

Thanks for the confirmation on the code meanings. Yes, "replace and charge lots of money" seems to be all dealers are good for anymore. They seldom even care that what they do doesn't even solve the root problems! I guess I can't really blame them though. They exist to take in money and pay out as little as possible. If the dealer even tried to do like I am, the price tag would go way past the cost of replacing the pack (which they are paid back for by the factory if it is under warranty still) and then hoping the warranty runs out soon so they can sell you a new pack with a big mark-up in price. LOL!

Your suggestion on the cooling fan is a good one. My neighbor (who is a master mechanic, just not with hybrid cars) suggested the same thing this morning when he saw me with my head in the car's trunk tracing the path the cooling air follows (which BTW is sucked into the trunk, but how it get out again is a mystery. This probably goes far in explaining why the battery is getting the 1449 overheat code.) I believe I will be drilling some new air holes for the battery box later too. LOL

So I took out the battery box cooling fan out today and either it doesn't work (which is weird since the computer didn't throw a code for it) or I can't figure out how to make the **** thing turn on without everything being put back together again (I hate all the needless electronic BS in simple electrical devices these days! Why the hell does a electric motor for a fan need a **** circuit board for! A simple heat sensing swt would do it better for less money and trouble too! Grrr!) I will need to look into that fan more, or just run around with the back seat out! LOL

I am also going to try "deep cycling" a subpack to 3 volts min and then recharge it to 8v again 3 times in order to restore most of the capacity of the stick. A battery book I have recommends this procedure for NiCd batteries which are kissing cousins of NiMh batteries. However this will need to be done the "old fashioned way" with my old fashion battery load tester and the charger/conditioner I already have. But I sure wish the guy I bought the car from had bought the same charger/conditioner everyone on these hybrid sites talks about. I guess if worse comes to worse I will need to go find the name of it again and shop for the right charger. :-(

 

There has to be a exhaust for the pack cooling system! Hal

 

my IMA light has been on constantly for about 3 months now. Sadly enough. it is 120K and no warranty. the Dealer said $2000 to replace it.

 

How is the car running otherwise Kat? Have you noticed your FE being lower? Is your engine battery being charged? Is the car not worth spending $2000 to repair? Was this the total cost IE Pack and labor? Other things cost this much or more to repair! Just curious. Hal