I GOT IT!!! Well kinda lol soooooo number 10 fuse under the dash is a 7.5a fuse and it says 'METER' ??? What does that stand for ??? Any ways I put a new fuse in it start it all the dash lights come on !! BUT when I take it out of park to put it in drive POPPPP the lights go out and and the fuse blows again WEIRD RIGHT every thing is fine tell I pull it out of drive ?!?!?!

Pleaseeeeeee help what does meter stand for and how can I make thaat fuse stop popping

 

Everything is fine tell I pull it out of PARK**** not drive please help my mind is goin crazyyy tryin to fig this out !! Lol

 

UPDATE

So i went out manually pulled it into N then put in a new fuse started it and pulled it down in drive fuse didnt pop so im thinking it has something t do with the reverse lights.... i unplugged them then put the car in reverse and the fuse didnt pop i allso put in a 15a fuse instead of a 7.5a fuse ... so could it be from the reverse lights ... or just not popping cause i have a 15a fuse in it instead of a 7.5....

Tomorrow im goig to buy some more 7.5a fuses and if they still dont pop AWESOME BUT Why would the reverse lights all the sudden cause this ???? i havent replaced them or anything and i pulled them out and they both look good :/ Sooo again im stumped but at least i got it running



Thanks again you guys for your thoughts an input

 

Must be a short in one of the reverse lights?,or it may be the back-up switch. I am not sure where you can find that switch in the car? At least they are not that important!I hope that is all it is. H

 

Could be the trip meter? H

 

Fusses blow for a reason. The reason is almost always because there is a short in the circuit, such that the circuit is taking too much power for the wiring to handle safely. That it happens when you put the selector into "reverse" is clue -- something that turns on when you select "reverse" has a short. That it does not blow when the reverse lights are disconnected, identifies the circuit. You might try disconnecting them one at a time, to find out which one it is.

If the short goes away when a particular device (reverse light) is disconnected, then the short is almost certainly inside that fixture. Light fixtures sometimes get water inside, which then causes a short. Light bulbs sometimes fail 'shorted'. Light bulb sockets sometimes also fail, but less often. And sometimes, it is just some water in the connector. Fixtures that have electronics inside sometimes have electronics problems. For those, you usually have to replace the fixture.

If it's not a fixture, then it's very likely a wire. The most common cause of shorts is when insulation touches a piece of metal. The metal scrapes the insulation, and the scrape exposes the copper inside the wire, which then touches the metal. To fix it, you either replace the wire, or just wrap some electrical tape around the wire to repair the insulation, and arrange things so that it won't get scraped again. The hard part is finding the scrape. To do that, you use an ohmmeter to first identify the wire, and then inspect that wire. It is usually tedious.

 

I think you've made an important misassumption there. At least in Canada, the warranty is completely transferable. I'm sure the same applies in the States (just guessing that's where you are).

 

I believe the warranty is only for 3 years thou? H

 

 

Same thing with my daughter's car happened to me...it was driving me crazy...no dash lights wouldn't start the windows wouldn't go up wouldn't come out of park. I googled everything tried everything .Seen this post changed the #10 fuse under the dash and it started right up windows went up....now the check engine light is on...but I got it in her parking spot and windows are up and I can sleep tonight.ty for this post 😊