Did the dealer update your PGM-FI software? If not, go back and ask them to check their TSBs. Click on this link to get the current (that I know of) TSB on this issue:

https://www.greenhybrid.com/share/mi...oadfile&i=3185

Even though your ECO light isn't coming on after your check engine light comes on, your car is still operating just as it normally does. I used a device called a Scangauge (you can learn what that is by looking through this forum, or search for it on the internet) and verified that my car was still getting it's normal fuel economy. So, even though I can't tell if it's really going into 3-cyl mode, it sure seems like it because the normal fuel economy I see on any particular road that I'm familiar with is still there.

Good for you! However, don't be surprised if they do charge you to do the TSB for the software update. The dealerships don't get reimbursed from Honda to do TSBs, unless they can do them under your warranty period.

As you've already experienced, it's not the TSB for the ANC issue that you've already taken care of. The TSB was for a low rumbling sound. And yours is a high one. Best guess, especially if you say the pitch changes with the speed of the car, is you're getting electromagnetic interference (EMI) somewhere. From what I remember from older cars, you can eliminate that with a filter bought at any auto sound shop. Even places like Best Buy should have them. It installs inline with your 12V input to your radio. I don't know for sure if this is your issue or if this will solve it, though. Just an idea.

I'm actually surprised your HAH is experiencing this problem. I thought the engineers went to great lengths to eliminate any sort of interference from the IMA motor. The reason the AM/FM antenna is where it is was to move it as far away from the IMA motor as possible. I haven't had a single issue with interference from the IMA motor and my car's radio. However, I do get a lot of interference when I use my handheld aviation radio in the car. Anytime the IMA motor operates, I get a nasty buzzing in my handheld and I have to crank up the squelch to silence it.

Good luck fixing your issues! And let us know how it went.

 

Oh, and I did get my PGM-FI software updated with that TSB, but I still get the same misfire codes. I have faith that the dealer did do the work, but I do wish there was some way for me to verify the software version. Apparently, the only way to check is with Honda's several thousand dollar Honda Diagnostic System tool.

One way I've found to mitigate setting the DTC codes and check engine light is not to go Wide Open Throttle. If I push the pedal 'almost' to the floor, I get the same amount of acceleration that I need. Sometimes, I do push it a little too far, and the check engine light comes on. But with the Scangauge, I can verify that it's the same P0300, P0301 and P0305 codes and then clear them to turn off the check engine light. The Scangauge costs about $150. But a simple ODBII code reader can be found for around $40. Sure beats going to the dealer (and possibly being charged for it) every time you need to read the codes and/or have the check engine light reset. Or, you can take your car to any AutoZone or the such and they do it for free.

 

Thanks for the responses - appreciate the help!

The next time I take my HAH for maintenance, I will ask about the TSB (I will have the TSB in hand just in case). I purchased an extended warranty when I bought the HAH in 2005 - will the TSB service be covered? I can't findf anywhere in the contract where it states that it wouldn't. It does baffle me, however, that Honda wouldn't get re-imbursed for this. I mean, it's not our fault that software gets superceded and problems arise (but I know this issue has been discussed extensively here).

As far as the whining, I am not sure it is any EMI issue. What is wierd about the sound is that it is coming through the speakers even when the radio is not on. I guess I shouldn't have called it a whining sound. Actually, it sounds more like a test tone (but the pitch of it increases with higher speed). Again, it is very faint and I think the only reason I started to notice it was due to the recent 15-hr road trip I made that was mostly interstate driving. Will check again the next time I am up on that speed to see if it is still there.

Thanks for the info on the code clearing procedures. I am seriously considering purchasing that instrument you mentioned. Guess I will have to watch my lead foot when merging as well .

Thanks again for the info and assistance!

 

If you have a Harbor Freight Tools around you, they usually have code readers pretty cheap. I think I saw one for $39 once. Just make sure the one you buy can also clear codes (reset the check engine light) because I believe there are a few cheap ones out there that don't do that.

 

After I bought a scan tool and hooked it up to OBD-II connector I finally found the problem with my car.
I had my car periodically jerking on a highway while I ease up a little on a gas.
The scan tool showed me that in this moment throttle opens wide for a split of second.
That caused rpm to jump to 100-300 rpm above average. Other sensors showed jump in reading too.
I arranged a test drive with Honda service department for next week.
Will keep you informed.

 

Here is an update.
After I brought car to a dealer and they did not find a problem we arranged installation of a "black" recording box to catch the glitch during my ride.
After a week of waiting for the box it was finally installed and I got instructions how to use it. It was in fact HIM (Honda Interface Module) programmed to serve as a live recorder of preprogrammed parameters.

I did my job of pressing the green button when I felt the car jerks and brought it back to the dealer.
After many days my car sitting I got a call from service manager saying that he personally drove the car and experienced something like I described. He also told me that he ordered NEW TRANSMISSION under factory warranty! My car has around 60000 miles now.
So now I'm impatiently waiting for my new transmission.
I appreciate if someone will confirm a transmission replacement under warranty for his car.

 

Well, good Luck with the New incoming Transmission.
I really find it hard to believe that the Trans with 6,000 Miles is the Problem.
But why not if they want to put one in.
I have 11,000 Miles Approx. on mine now.
There have been other owners with the same condition and I do not recall anyone getting a New Trans. to Correct their Problem.
My understanding has always been that it is just one of those things with the design of the HAH.

It will be interesting to see if the New Trans. does Correct this Long-Term ........

Terry

 

Please read accurately: 60,000 miles not 6,000!
I started to notice the problems after first 10,000-15,000 miles.
So pay attention to your tranny.
BTW I have the same other simptoms mentioned in other threads like:
1) transmission "clunk" and IMA disengage (the problem went away when main problem intensified)
2) Transmission chugging around low mph
3) vibration at light throttle
I don't know the origin(s) of these symptoms I just state the fact.
BTW I think to buy some scan tool from OTC (Nemisys) to monitor my car closely.

 

Man I Hate when I MISS that real Number like (60,000 Miles) ...........

Well, you certainly are going to be Very Well off then for Sure with the New Trans.

Congrats !!!!!!!!!

Terry

 

ОK.
Here is my impression after new transmission been installed and driven for around 2000 miles.
The car got much stronger response to the gas on the highway.
The car kept vibration issues while light acceleration at low speed/rpm.
Assisting function works inconsistent (90% of the time rather slowing down acceleration in the first moment after stepping on the gas).
Assisting function does not work on steep hills even when battery indicator is full.
The car slows down significantly when rolling down on steep hill (around 40-50 mph) in charging mode and with released gas pedal (does not slow down when charging is not engaged).
In order to disengage charging mode while going downhill do the next:
1) Release the gas pedal
2) Select “Neutral”
3) Wait 1-2 sec.
4) Select “Drive”
5) While doing all that do not touch the gas pedal
In order to reengage charging mode while going downhill do the next:
1) Slightly step on the gas pedal to make RPMs jump above 1500-1800
2) Release the gas pedal
This procedure works on my car at least. Do it when there is NO car in front of you!
To me all these symptoms but one are pointing on bad synchronization between electrical motor and ICE.
Vibration issues may be originating from active engine mounts running out sync with ICE.
FE does not impess me at all (whatever I do it is not more then 32.5 MPG average now).
What do you think of this?