Hello,

I've been working on my 2005 HAH and I've essentially (AC system still needs to be checked for leaks) got the thing up and running as though it hadn't been sitting in a driveway for 6 years unused. The auto stop system seems to be working, and the drive is smooth. However...

The hybrid system is predictably acting a bit odd. Specifically, the SoC meter often starts low and slowly reaches 2 bars, but once it hits 3 bars the meter flies up to 6 in a matter of seconds. It discharges similarly, but rarely drops to a single bar of charge. Auto stop seems to function when the SoC meter is moving upward. The charging meter lights up and fills as normal, but the assist is notably pretty absent. There is either no or, and only sometimes, a small amount of assist when moving from being stopped. The most consistent scenario I was able to feel a noticeable amount of assist in was light acceleration around 20mph.

This obviously tanks the mpg on the vehicle. In stop and go neighborhood driving I see around 16mpg, with city driving climbing to maybe 18mpg.

Curious to see if I had bad battery modules, I disassembled the battery and tested each module. Every single one reported 16.53±0.01V. I hooked each module up to a 6W computer fan and checked the voltage under this load as well as the current drawn:16.50V and roughly 0.35A current.

A bit at a loss, I decided to check out the other circuitry. There seems, to me, to be a single circuit which travels in parallel along the length of every single battery in the same order that the batteries are hooked up in sequence. On one end is the brown wire which travels along the bottom slot to the white plug, and on the other it terminates in a grey wire going to the same connector. I assume this is used to check for physical continuity of the battery. I've outlined the circuit components in these two images: https://i.imgur.com/rOFjXj7.jpeg , https://i.imgur.com/itwfs6f.png. When assembled, the system tested well for continuity. The side panel of the battery also has a series of wires connected to what look like ceramic capacitors in pairs labelled A-F in this image: https://i.imgur.com/9gfvkOL.jpeg. These wires are gathered into the orange plug which connects to the hybrid battery computer in the car. Their function is a mystery to me, but if I had to hazard a guess, their state can be sampled by the computer and this is how it determines the SoC of the system. Otherwise, they look like decoupling capacitors but their placement makes little sense. What intrigues me is that each of these tested for very different capacitances. I cannot fathom a reason for a manufacturer to use differently valued capacitors that appear completely identical in a system like this other than for differentiation at a known state which seems not so useful to my (admittedly novice) intuition. Their values were:

A1: 120nF
A2: 130nF
B1: 125nF
B2: 105nF
C1: 60nF
C2: 86nF
D1: 110nF
D2: 185nF
E1: 185nF
E2: 115nF
F1: 50nF
F2: 110nF

Could such variance indicate a problem with the capacitors (a much cheaper replacement job than all 10 modules)?

From where I sit now I think have 4 options:

1) Continue to drive the car until the IMA light comes on. After 2-3 hours of test driving this seems to be a problem I would run into later rather than sooner.
2) Replace the capacitors if they are supposed to be of a particular value with new capacitors. I don't know what this value should be.
3) Replace all the battery modules myself. I have not yet found battery modules online which have the tabs which form the continuity circuit. I could likely remove that assembly from my current set of battery modules and transfer it to the new modules if I were careful, but I am unsure.
4) Recondition the battery as best I can and return to option 1.

Any advice on what I should try to do? Any idea what those capacitances should be?