It sounds like a 20 amp fuse is needed to avoid potential problems (horn needs a peak of 16 from what I can find). The fuse is shared with the brake lights. I'm thinking about these tail lights http://www.streetsideauto.com/produc...tnumber=321077 which are LEDs. Perhaps they will drop the amp requirements as well to be able to keep a 15 amp fuse?

 

I did not change the fusing for the Hella Super dual Horns I installed and have yet to have a problem.

 

I did both the horn and the fog lights this week and they work great. Thanks for the excellent write up!!

 

Now I'm having an odd problem with my fogs. I pulled the navi headunit out to attach a USA SPEC iPod adapter and reinstalled with minimal difficulty.

Now, the fog light switch on the stalk works, and the dash indicator lights up, but the fogs don't illuminate. I have the Honda HCH II shop manual but I can't find any mention of electronic accessories like fog lights. I just discovered this when I drove the car yesterday so I haven't gotten much of a chance to investigate further yet. Is there another relay behind the dash? Will the dash indicator light up even if the 20 amp fuse is blown?

 

Check to see that you did not pull the fog light power line connector out. It is a single line connector down by the steering column.

This is an interim connector between the switch and the fog lights.

 

That puzzled me as well. Perhaps they mean the "idle learn procedure"? I have a 2006 shop manual, I'll try to look it up this weekend and post anything I find.

 

Thanks!

I traced it back to the white/red terminals on the 34 pin connector. One had evidently wiggled out just a little too much. Now they're fine unless this continues to be an issue. The wires are very small and the clips fragile (I broke one during the initial installation and had to order a new wire) but I can't find any damage at this point.

Obviously, this was 100% easier in daylight than when I did my inital inspection at night under garage lights.

 

I just found my Hellas lying on the black plastic "floor" inside the bumper. Evidently, the attachment point for the OEM horn couldn't support the weight of the new horns. The steel was literally bent and torn wih the threaded bolt and some of the surrounding steel still attached to the horn bracket. It almost looked like accident damage except the car hasn't been in any collision and there's no other evidence of damage in the surrounding area. There was rust on the metal. Just a word to those that live in more extreme climates that see winter, etc.

 

Running with 50lbs are pressure can add stress to the hangers Mike ,<grin> H

 

No kidding! My Nokians are rated for up to 51 psi but I've dropped the pressure back to the mid 40s because the ride is so rough at higher psi and the roads my wife drives to work on are atrocious to boot.

When I reinstalled the horns I used the relay and they sound far better, audible when I double click the lock button.