Yeah, I guess that makes sense. The level of resistance by the faulty window channel just hasn't reached the point where it causes the window to leave the channel. Yet.

Thanks for all the help. I go see my dealer at 1pm today, with new information in hand!

 

UPDATE - I just got off the phone with the service manager at my dealer. She was able to look up the issue using the Bulletin Number 06-014, and she read it to me right off of her computer. The bulletin addresses both the window popping out of its track AND the window binding and stalling when rolling up. She ordered the part and will call when it's in.

Thanks again for the guidance! This website is an incredible resource for us all.

 

You're welcome.

I'd call Honda of America back and point out their mistake.

 

I just brought my car in for this exact problem. The technician said it was a common problem and that they needed to lubricate the track. Apparently, the problem was that the window was encountering too much resistance as it closed (hence the need for lubrication) and reopening as a safety precaution. Haven't had the problem since they lubricated the track.

 

The lubrication will eventually wear away.

Then you can lube it again, and again, or make Honda do the correct fix which involves replacing defective parts as called out in Bulletin 06-014.

Lube is a band aid used by lazy techs to make the customer go away.

 

Bingo! This is the problem. I haven't had mine fixed yet either, but I occasionally have both issues. I'll get it done at the next oil-change, along with the "hot-seat" IMA recall.

 

CVT? I don't think so. The recalibration routine applies only to the IMA battery level monitoring. Whenever I do one, I just go for a short little drive. 5-10 minutes later when at full SoC (8 bars), the calibration is done.


Cheers;

MSantos

 

Yeah, I took Steve to be asking about "re-learning" like most engine control computers have to do these days if you disconnect the battery because the computer is adaptive to driving style. That kind of relearing is a pain, depending on how obvious your car is about it. (I've had cars <cough *Oldsmobile* cough> that had to re-learn how to *idle* after a battery disconnect.)

But the CVT isn't adaptive like the engine, so there's nothing for it to "re-learn" after a power cut. So I'd put "recalibrate the CVT" in the same category as "check your blinker fluid": You really don't need to do it that often.


Cheers --
Doug

 

im sure theres a sticker near the battery about the cvt, i'll check it today