Ok, I did a quick Google seach:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...+compound+lugs

Where's the big NO-NO?

 

NF:
The first 2 links say not to do it.

 

Did you read the links?

They are truckers worried about getting correct torque on their lugs and they several places that it's not that big of a deal either way.

Do you use a torque wrench?

I think it's overkill unless you are mudding or tracking.

No where does the quick google search say anything equating "a big NO-NO".

If there is a serious problem with it, then I want to know. I just haven't found it.

nf

 

Actually, no. I didn't read the links. I just read the descriptions underneath them. Sorry for the confusion due to my laziness.

 

No sweat. It's a non-issue for 99% of the readers here. We prob don't even need the stuff for our hubs.

Cheers, nf

 

Photos of jacking points shown here:
https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...tml#post197926

 

I happened to raise our HCHII yesterday (to install the middle section aerodynamic underpanels, that didn't come standard on our Canadian purchased vehicle).

I've been using a 3 ton jack with a max saddle height of around 20"~21", and 6 ton jackstands, with a range from around 15"~21". The 4 rocker panel jacking points start off around 6.5" above the floor.

I also picked up a set of 4 heavy duty rubber tire blocks, which are handy whenever one pair of tires are still on the floor.

Also, I made up a 2x4 on edge cradle (a stack of 2x4's with a couple of threaded rods running through to clamp them together), plus a couple of 3/4" wood sheets of the same footprint, to be able to raise the jack up to 5" as needed. I fashioned a further small piece of 2x4, fit to sit securely in the cradle for 1.5" extra lift.

I use the front and rear main jacking points exclusively, for lifting with the floor jack. The front lifting point is a rectangular black metal bracket, centrally located maybe 18" back from the front bumper, with a stamped arrow adjacent. The rear one is the toe hook, similarly located relative to the rear bumper. The front jacking point is quite close to ground whereas the rear point is kind of high, making the 2x4 cradle especially useful. Whenever jacking I put a hockey puck in the interface.

This allows me to raise for most any situation: lower for tire swap or brake job, higher when you want to swing the engine compartment plastic shield down. The latter is doable with 11"~12" lift, better with 14".

I'll usually start with the front, raise as high as it can go, which will just allow the jackstands to fit under the front 2 rocker panel bearing points. I use the wheel blocks with this lift. Then I go round the back, jack it up, and put the other two jacktands under the rear rocker panel bearing points. Then back to the front, then back to the rear, as required, depending on how much lift I need. You want to make note of the steps as you go, so you can reverse them without incident, bring the car back down.

It's worth checking if your slab is a little out-of-true. Make sure all jackstands are making solid contact. If they aren't, lift back up a bit and shim under their bases to remedy. The car will flex a little, your shims don't have to be perfect, just to negate gross variations.

Always give everything a good shake to make sure it's solid. If you need to crawl under (and you likely do), for insurance: slide something under there that's solid and as thick as you, to keep you company, say the spare tires.

This shows the car raised around 11":

 

You should always clean the studs first. You should only put a very light coat of grease or anti-seize on the wheel studs. I said very "light coat". Why do you think people break the studs off when trying to unscrew the lug nuts?????????????

 

I have used the jack that came with car since 2002 to change my tires (summer/winter) without any issues. That's about 12 lift each year for 7 years.

 

A couple more tips that I don't think have been mentioned:

1. Whenever you intend to take a wheel off, loosen the lug nuts slightly, while the car is still on the ground. Don't loosen them a lot, but just enough to break the bond. It's much easier, and much safer than trying to loosen them once the wheel is raised.

2. Only once I had a wheel "frozen" on the hub, even after the lug nuts where removed. Rust had built up at the interface, and I could not budge the wheel. A search on the internet yield this advice, which worked fine for me: put the lug nuts back on, but loose (a slight amount of play), and lower the wheel back onto the floor. With the whole weight of car brought to bear on the interface it should break loose.