Hello,

I am just seeing to get a few second opinions of this scenario. I have a 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid with a manual transmission. It's currently gets 43mpg with the IMA light on, it does hold a charge and work, but I would say it is operating only at a quarter capacity. From my own research, the cheapest option I am thinking is this buying a rebuild kit from Electron Hybrid Solutions. I am not worried about replacing them myself, my main question is it worth replacing the cells. I live in a dry warm climate, I purchased the car for $1,500, with 90K miles 2 years ago, it has 106K now, and the IMA light recently came on for the battery. I figured for a $1000, to have another reliable car for the next 3-5 years isn't a bad option, I plan on just keeping it till I am done with school, plus the manual is a lot of fun to have in the car. Or is it just worth driving it into the ground, and not doing anything about. Let me know what you think, thank you!

Link for the replacement cells: https://electronhybridsolution.com/p...y-rebuild-kit/

I forgot to add that the car is in great mechanical condition, previous owner was an old man who was meticulous with maintenance, so everything from engine, brakes, and suspension are great, only problem has been the battery recently.

 

Check diagnostic codes first. Confirm source of IMA fault.

 

The codes are P1600 and P1449, so an IMA malfunction, and the battery either overheating, cell voltage deviation of -/+ 2V, or something else. If I had to take a guess it’s the voltage deviation, and I do recall the cooling fan after the car turns off is no longer running. From my reading some people have driven with the same code for many more miles, but for a $1000 to have a new battery that could last for another 3-4 years, and probably getting another 50k out of this car doesnt seem like a bad option.

 

P1449 is one of the least recoverable. Grid charging is unlikely to resolve, but it might. You can check if it's the voltage deviation issue by removing the IPU cover and probing the back of the BCM plug (orange wire from the battery) to manually check the 10 tap voltages.

I think people get too hung up on the value of old cars. Who gives a ****? Cars are disposable. People using that model conveniently ignore replacement cost. Where else can you by a car for $1000 that you can confidently get 50K miles out of it?

You also have the option to bypass the hybrid battery. This will prevent 12V charging below about 1500rpm and above about 3500rpm, but the car will stop the attempted forced charges that can further rob you of mileage. Link in signature.

You can also just continue as-is if you're happy with it. You will not be able to pass emissions in this condition, and eventually the battery will degrade to the point that 12V charging is disabled.

 

That's what I figured. I would much rather put in a few thousand to get an older car reliable for the next few years, I never understood "It costs x amount for the repair, might as well spend 4 times the repair cost for a newer car." I was just curious with these cars as I am relatively new to them. So I will purchase those new cells, and install them myself. Do I need to flash the ECU after installing? I know if I disconnect the engine battery it removes the codes, and they come on after 30 miles of driving, so I planned on doing that after installing the new cells. Thanks for the quick responses by the way.

 

You'll need to check with the supplier, but since you're rebuilding the pack you may be fine. The new sticks don't have the PTC strips, so you'll likely need to spoof that loop with a 20-30Ω resistor. If your pack is a replacement after 2004, then the BCM should be flashed to disable the PTC circuit.

 

Hello Keith,
I have a question I am hoping you might be able to shed some light on. I am currently exchanging the cells, and towards the end of the process of putting the orange panel with all the screws and bolts, I stripped one of them, and now I am in search of a new screw. Would I be able to match them at a local hardware store or are they made out of a certain material since it is screwed into a battery?

 

Nevermind, I found an M6 stainless steel bolt, and I have finished the new battery install. Averaging 56 mpg after 10 miles of driving, and no check engine light or IMA light anymore, so pretty excited, thank you for your previous help!