Swapped Modules now no start
#1
Swapped Modules now no start
So, I decided to gamble and swap all modules in my battery pack. I finished the task, threw it back in and no start. Service hybrid message on DIC. So I test, I have 311v on the pack, but I'm not seeing power at the high voltage leads to the hybrid inverter. I have voltage to the negative and positive power contractors. But they seem to not being passing the power past them. I've tripled checked every connection, all is good there. If i use my bluetooth obd and torque, I do see battery voltages and it states 60% SOC, so the ecu is on and communicating, any ideas?
#4
Re: Swapped Modules now no start
So now after driving a few trips with the "new" cells, I now got the P0BBD code. These cells are above a d beyond better then what I had, auto stop at every stop now, auto stop stays engaged longer. Any clues as to what's up?
#6
Re: Swapped Modules now no start
To the OP: Did you test the new modules?
#7
Re: Swapped Modules now no start
Yo the best of my ability. Resting voltage was good, once all hooked up I had 311v. I watched them while driving with tourqe, all 20 voltage blocks are pretty much dead on to eachother. What kind of voltages should I see under full load, to full charge?
#8
Re: Swapped Modules now no start
Your response indicates that you did no testing of any kind. Measuring voltage only gives some confirmation that all six cells within each module will hold some charge greater than 0 even if it's woefully insufficient to perform satisfactorily in the vehicle. A
t 311V pack, you should have 7.78±.01V across all 40 modules. More importantly, all modules should have been within .02V of each other prior to installation. If not, they are suspect.
Did you tighten all 80 module terminal nuts to 48 in-lb?
I can't remember how the main leads from the GM back connect to the relay. If it's via a 10mm nut, did you tighten the nuts to 70 in-lb? If they're just plug-in, then ignore that.
Was there any evidence of corrosion on the voltage sensing terminals?
Did you clean the bus bars?
From where did you source the 40 modules?
Do you have a list of the 40 module serial numbers?
t 311V pack, you should have 7.78±.01V across all 40 modules. More importantly, all modules should have been within .02V of each other prior to installation. If not, they are suspect.
Did you tighten all 80 module terminal nuts to 48 in-lb?
I can't remember how the main leads from the GM back connect to the relay. If it's via a 10mm nut, did you tighten the nuts to 70 in-lb? If they're just plug-in, then ignore that.
Was there any evidence of corrosion on the voltage sensing terminals?
Did you clean the bus bars?
From where did you source the 40 modules?
Do you have a list of the 40 module serial numbers?
#9
Re: Swapped Modules now no start
wonder if you connected the 12volt battery cable correctly? (loose cable or dirty cables can cause all kinds of issues) including that AutoStop lag you had before (it was your unsecured 12volt battery the whole time causing the autostop lag and not your HV battery or transmission aux pump)
Last edited by Tahoe_08; 10-16-2019 at 02:14 PM.
#10
Re: Swapped Modules now no start
So I pulled the battery back out, disconnected everything, recleaned all terminals, tightened all connections to spec. Measured cell voltages, all cells were from 7.847 to 7.878. Put the battery back in, went for a test drive, eventually after 45 mins if driving got the code again. I got the cells from Ebay, they have a 90 day return policy, but at this point, I dont know how I could pinpoint one was being the culprit? I do know these cells are 100x better then me old ones, a d I never got this code with the old ones, except one time in the year I owned it. The normal trip I take I usually averaged 18.5 mpg, last night I averaged 23.9 mpg.