Hey all! Just wanted to check in with quick question. My Hybrid is at 103k now and running with no problems. I had a lot of lurching etc that I couldn't figure out and replacing the hybrid battery fixed it all (used GreenBean Battery, would highly recommend). I've resolved that anyone with lurching issues on these vehicles are just in denial about their hybrid battery going bad, lol.

Long story short, I took my truck onto the beach in Pismo Beach in California to do some truck camping, hit a bump pretty hard and it screwed up my lower, unpainted bumper/airdam. The top part of the bumper was alright but the lower one cracked a bit. Do you guys know the part number? To clarify, I do not need the entire assembly - JUST the lower part of the air dam. I'm having trouble finding the part ## online.

Thanks y'all.

 

Could it possibly be this one?

Part Number: 15290959

 

15290959 is correct

 

Hey Erik - so your new battery did the trick? Not the aux trans pump like so many people say? There’s a service bulletin that says it’s the aux trans pump - I’m having same shudder jerk issues but no codes. Getting not-great gas mileage too.

Either I spend $2500 for new battery or spend $2k for updated trans pump and module - feel like it’s a big expensive gamble.

I had a test done at a hybrid place and while truck was sitting idling - all volts and readouts seemed fine. Hybrid place said probably wasn’t battery but I’ve heard varied opinions on the actual testing of the Tahoe batteries. Mines a 2009 with 70k miles.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

If the truck was sitting idling, they likely didn't do a meaningful test. You need to monitor/record the 20 block voltages as you discharge the hybrid battery. The difference between a good battery and a bad battery is night and day.

Codes?

 

Currently A few codes - P0AFB from AC COMPRESSOR — and also two from Engine control module P0138 high voltage and P0521 oil pressure.

8 Months ago Gmc dealer did an update during a service ( unsuccessful in figuring shudder - lurch problem) and I heard it rumored that the update prevents codes to attempt to make battery run longer, since these batteries can chug along for years while failing. But all this is just hearsay. Thanks Keith

 

have you checked your battery and connections as well as the 6 ground connecting points they are such a fail that it causes issues with the AUX pump

as it requires a ton of power off the 12volt line the inverter(someone else claimed it did which is not true ) is not always supplying power its configured like the normal tahoes which cycle the alternator(or in this case the inverter ) on and off to save a tiny bit of gas as it only floats at 13.0-13.1 volts

that AUX pump(3phase) it uses about 700-1.2KWwatts of power (estimation based on the wire size)

the people that report replacement of the aux pumps are just getting a placebo effect on it being truly repaired those connections at the battery come loose very easy and after the work is done the battery is reconnected correctly.. hence looking like that fixed it


you should have the 12v+ battery replaced if it's over 3 years old and the ground wires checked more then likely they are very crusty and/or damaged causing the battery not to charge correctly .... my battery when engine off is 12.9 volts which is 100% charged if your at 12.6 or less it's not charging or it's bad


it's reporting 14.8 volts at the BCM when charging before i lightly cleaned the 4 of 6 ground connections between the inverter and battery

it was reporting 14.65



the last failure of the 12v+ battery the Engine stalled as my voltage on the battery dropped below 11 volts "the inverter was off"
hence the BCM and other devices reporting they shut off because the lack of power...
spontaneous failure..


the only part that was getting power when it stalled was the Power Steering since the inverter Will continuously supply power. I was able to steer but it was stalled out I had to let it roll i barely made it off the street to a safe place.


I have had NO issue with the Tras AUX pump since I replaced it with a brand new battery I bought a AGM battery at walmart H6 worth every penny my net cost per year will only be $32/year(based on the FULL replacement warranty of 5 years) compared to the standard Lead acid battery which is 40$ per year cost of ownership(based on the full replacement warranty of 3 years)


I have had 100's of auto stop cycles since = No issue


P0AFB = Hybrid battery voltage safety limit (voltage high)
that is not an Air conditioning code

P0138 Shorted o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (driver side)
like it says it's shorted to ground or dead

P0521 sensor is reading issues more then likely it's
Fix:
Tube pickup oring/ clogged screen/ bad sensor.

 

Here’s the codes I got .[img]blob:https://www.greenhybrid.com/f9c401ae-fdfe-4441-b0a1-beb04e82b2d7[/img]


Here’s the codes I got

 

that information is pulled directly from the Tahoe GM Hybrid manual

on the battery issue one (or more)of the Cells might be too high causing that as it's "> 1" = "greater then 1 volt"
someone will need to pull the pack and replace the offending cell(s)... if you have a tech2 or something that can read the voltage it will be easier to deal with

 

Thank you Tahoe8. A friend said when the hybrid batteries start to fail they show high voltage in an effort to charge but sorta over-charge to compensate. Does this mean my hybrid battery has met its useful life? Is that the cause of the shuddering and jerking so many people report or could it be aux trans pump. Thoughts?

had my 12v battery checked months ago and it checked ok but I believe it’s 5 years old.