Hello very new to this forum thing. I'm
Looking for help diagnosing hybrid packs. I currently have a 40-cell pack on my bench out of the 09 escalade.
After checking the voltage on each cell individually, I can't determine that this cell is anything but perfect all cells are reading 8.3v~. I'm curious if anyone has had any luck with finding a load tester for these cells, as voltage test doesn't tell you much. I'm getting a lag on acceleration, also the hybrid system seems to only work when it wants to. I've done alot of studying on hybrid systems is there a procedure for testing MG 1 and MG2? I for a minute thought maybe it could have been a torque converter issue due to some of these random sympotoms that include accelerating on its own while the brakes are applied or the difficulty it has shifting gears. come to learn there is no torque converter in the 2ML70. so to sum this up what are my diagnostic procedures here?


hybrid drive train possibly has developed conductive fluid?
Auxiliary pump maybe?
Or hybrid control module?
links to any load testers available for these cells?
maybe this could all be traced back to a bad ground?

lol sorry this is a sloppy post HELP lol

Codes are hybrid battery variation exceeded
and about 20 other codes its actualy insane how many codes im flashing

 

99.999% chance the battery is completely shot from one end to the other with massive widespread capacity damage where the battery likely has less than 10-20% of its rated capacity.

What codes?
Did you run Torque Pro PIDs and log block voltages per the instructions on this site?

Load test:

Remove FOUR bus bars from the orange straps.
Carefully fasten TWO pointing straight up on both ends of a middle module.
Attach a 100A 12V load tester to the bus bars.
Attach a multimeter to the bus bars.
Record resting voltage
Apply the load
wait 15 seconds
Record multimeter voltage
Terminate load.
Wait 60 seconds.
Record voltage.
Allow the tester to cool for 2 minutes, preferably with forced air (fan).

Repeat the above for one of the end modules.

 

the truck revving itself up while you're on the brakes I've seen a few comments on. it's a dangerous thing it does but the computer is trying to keep the truck running because the battery is shot, and at that point it needs the rpm to generate enough power to keep itself from dying out.

how old is the battery and how many miles.. at this point as Keith said, it's the battery. it's always the battery. by the time it sets the battery bad code you got, it's been bearly alive for 2 years.

definitely load test it out of curiosity, if you can't do that test, do Keith's other test here...

https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...results-31736/

this is basically using the truck to load test it and using tq app to record the data.

there is tsb's and updates for the aux tranny pump, and a few other things which can't hurt to do. but 99.9% of the time it's just a bad battery.

 

on another board there's a guy in Kentucky selling a good one in a part out if you happen to be near by there.

 

Define "a good one"

I've seen them completely ragged out at 55K miles. I wouldn't consider one that's been in a car "a good one" without direct test evidence.

 

can only go by what he said in the post that is was brand new from greentec and then the tranny died. so he parted it out. so yeah no clue. I have no idea how good any of these rebuilt batteries are, and have no way to test it.

 

I have laid hands on a few Greentec batteries. "I wouldn't consider one that's been in a car "a good one" without direct test evidence." still applies.

 

Hey Keith, do you have a post with pics about this load test?

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Hey, thanks for the reply. This is kinda what I was hoping wouldn't be the case; I'm just replacing the head gaskets and valves on the engine i cleaned all the terminals on the battery and reassemble it, you know... with the old hope that sometimes work with electronics, take apart, reassemble and wave the magic wand and it's fixed you never know. 🤣 I definitely want to get back to these testing procedures. give me a few days to do these tests and get back to you guys I really appreciate the help thanks.

 

i been pushing a lot of miles on mine my MPG is already restored compared to what i got in the winter 12.5mpg > 23.6mpg... i got a new job so now i can buy a new battery in a couple of months.... forcing regen power into the battery refreshed it a bit i can also autostop resume again normally

still shows some weakness when its below 60f though but it's summer time Revving up the engine on down hills to 3,000 rpm to push power into the batteries...